Sustainable fashion is the buzzword today. Meera Vijayann finds out what it takes to become an eco-conscious fashion designer.
Fashionistas around the world seem to be turning over a new leaf. Right from popular stars such as Cameron Diaz, Alicia Silverstone and Colin Firth turning up on the Oscar's 'green carpet', early this year to famous labels hosting eco-fashion awards to recognise the growing sense of awareness among those in the fashion world, there is an emerging recognition among designers to curb our blatant use of resources and adopt the habit of 're-use and recycle'.
The good news for design students in India is that there is a huge demand today for fashion that reflects character and individuality, drawing attention to small-scale labels and bigger brands providing room for fashion experts who can advise them better on responsible fashion.
Uma Haimavati, the founder of Upasana, a design studio that aims to explore fashion in a socially-responsible way, believes that materials such as cotton doesn't just drape our bodies, it drapes our soul. "Over the last few years, I've been talking to organic cotton farmers and it made me sensitive to what is happening in the real world.
Being a fashion designer, it bothered me because it was my sector and I wondered what I could do about it. I felt I had a social responsibility to reflect on the country's fate where hundreds and millions of farmers are directly affected."
Her studio, snug in the tropical expanse of Auroville, is a far cry from the world of fast cars, high-end consumerism and sky-high business towers. Arriving in Auroville in 1996, and eventually settling there, she reflects upon the early years of fashion in India, and the dangers of straying away from where we come from.
Opportunities and challenges
In India, as there are few regular, established courses in sustainable fashion, it is well advised for students to get an undergraduate degree in fashion from a reputed college and then specialise in eco-fashion. The sustainable fashion market is said to be worth Rs 1,500 crores by 2015.
In 2010, The Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF) at London College of Fashion launched 'Shared Talent India', an initiative that helps designers and buyers source sustainable fabrics from India by connecting them directly with suppliers abroad. Efforts such as these prove an excellent opportunity for young designers to get their feet wet in the new field. Recently, in the Huffington Post, design researcher, Soren Petersen suggested that most designers simply do not know how to approach and address social problems through design.
The key, he advises, is to turn around the cyclical nature of our economy into a competitive advantage by applying skills as high-profile innovative projects always draw attention of quality clients. In India, popular designer labels such as Mehara Shaw, which is eco-friendly and works directly with rural artisans, and Ethicus, famously known to be India's first brand that uses 100 per cent organic cotton and ethical silk are two excellent examples of perseverance and systemic change in fashion.
A foundation in sustainable fashion and design
Several universities abroad offer fantastic courses in sustainability and design. This can help hone a student's understanding and widen his/her perspective on the social field on a global level. A few such institutions include:
*The University of Pennsylvania, USA
Programme title: MBA and Master's in Environmental Studies.
Course description: A dual-degree programme that allows students to earn an MBA along with a Masters in Environmental Studies.
*London College of Fashion: The Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UK
Programme title: MA in Fashion and the Environment
Course description: Biodegradable, recyclable to eco-chic, this course is tailored to perfection for fashion students aiming to change the industry.
*Pratt Institute, US
Programme title: MS in Art and Design Education (professional certification)
Course description: Critical enquiry into the world of art and design that combines community practices.
Business ideas & practice
For Uma Haimavati, the idea of establishing a project stemmed from engaging in real life and spiritually transforming fashion. "Upasana is about goods and services with a holistic vision," she says. "It is a frontier that makes people promote organic, a lifestyle choice that remains rooted and futuristic."
The colours, embroidery and personality of the clothes sold by Upasana complement Uma's vision to bring about a change in the way people consume fashion. Stylish uber-chic cotton garments, accessories and yoga apparel from Upasana that are marketed in cities lure a steady crowd in India's top metropolitan cities.
In the larger context, Uma's dream of bringing out the meaning of eco-consciousness has come true.
Sustainable fashion seems to be the buzzword in India's fashion industry. People in the industry are now waking up to the harsh reality of over-dependency on natural resources for fashion. In the long run, sustainable fashion will alter the lifestyle of the average Indian, who is fast moving towards western consumerism.
On a positive note, recycling and re-using old fabric has been an old tradition in Indian homes, and therefore, the concept isn't entirely new for people to grasp. International fashion is slowly going eco-friendly as well. Interestingly, Indian prints and organic cotton were similar themes on the runways in Paris and Milan recently.
Auroville's holistic teaching is visible in all of Uma's creations. Earthy, simple and minimalistic, they lack the feel of materialism. In Puducherry, where Auroville is located, Uma and her team stay tuned to their natural surroundings, involved in the lives of the communities and constantly trying to re-invent the way people think, and helping spread the idea of socially responsible art, craft and fashion.
"I count myself as a trendsetter, not a follower. There is a whole consumerist market where you have a huge labour force here but we still don't use. India must showcase healthy consumer behaviour," Uma says thoughtfully, "We aim at no particular market, it is for everybody and we see the results of our projects despite staying away from fierce marketing." Well, we couldn't agree more.
Fashionistas around the world seem to be turning over a new leaf. Right from popular stars such as Cameron Diaz, Alicia Silverstone and Colin Firth turning up on the Oscar's 'green carpet', early this year to famous labels hosting eco-fashion awards to recognise the growing sense of awareness among those in the fashion world, there is an emerging recognition among designers to curb our blatant use of resources and adopt the habit of 're-use and recycle'.
The good news for design students in India is that there is a huge demand today for fashion that reflects character and individuality, drawing attention to small-scale labels and bigger brands providing room for fashion experts who can advise them better on responsible fashion.
Uma Haimavati, the founder of Upasana, a design studio that aims to explore fashion in a socially-responsible way, believes that materials such as cotton doesn't just drape our bodies, it drapes our soul. "Over the last few years, I've been talking to organic cotton farmers and it made me sensitive to what is happening in the real world.
Being a fashion designer, it bothered me because it was my sector and I wondered what I could do about it. I felt I had a social responsibility to reflect on the country's fate where hundreds and millions of farmers are directly affected."
Her studio, snug in the tropical expanse of Auroville, is a far cry from the world of fast cars, high-end consumerism and sky-high business towers. Arriving in Auroville in 1996, and eventually settling there, she reflects upon the early years of fashion in India, and the dangers of straying away from where we come from.
Opportunities and challenges
In India, as there are few regular, established courses in sustainable fashion, it is well advised for students to get an undergraduate degree in fashion from a reputed college and then specialise in eco-fashion. The sustainable fashion market is said to be worth Rs 1,500 crores by 2015.
In 2010, The Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF) at London College of Fashion launched 'Shared Talent India', an initiative that helps designers and buyers source sustainable fabrics from India by connecting them directly with suppliers abroad. Efforts such as these prove an excellent opportunity for young designers to get their feet wet in the new field. Recently, in the Huffington Post, design researcher, Soren Petersen suggested that most designers simply do not know how to approach and address social problems through design.
The key, he advises, is to turn around the cyclical nature of our economy into a competitive advantage by applying skills as high-profile innovative projects always draw attention of quality clients. In India, popular designer labels such as Mehara Shaw, which is eco-friendly and works directly with rural artisans, and Ethicus, famously known to be India's first brand that uses 100 per cent organic cotton and ethical silk are two excellent examples of perseverance and systemic change in fashion.
A foundation in sustainable fashion and design
Several universities abroad offer fantastic courses in sustainability and design. This can help hone a student's understanding and widen his/her perspective on the social field on a global level. A few such institutions include:
*The University of Pennsylvania, USA
Programme title: MBA and Master's in Environmental Studies.
Course description: A dual-degree programme that allows students to earn an MBA along with a Masters in Environmental Studies.
*London College of Fashion: The Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UK
Programme title: MA in Fashion and the Environment
Course description: Biodegradable, recyclable to eco-chic, this course is tailored to perfection for fashion students aiming to change the industry.
*Pratt Institute, US
Programme title: MS in Art and Design Education (professional certification)
Course description: Critical enquiry into the world of art and design that combines community practices.
Business ideas & practice
For Uma Haimavati, the idea of establishing a project stemmed from engaging in real life and spiritually transforming fashion. "Upasana is about goods and services with a holistic vision," she says. "It is a frontier that makes people promote organic, a lifestyle choice that remains rooted and futuristic."
The colours, embroidery and personality of the clothes sold by Upasana complement Uma's vision to bring about a change in the way people consume fashion. Stylish uber-chic cotton garments, accessories and yoga apparel from Upasana that are marketed in cities lure a steady crowd in India's top metropolitan cities.
In the larger context, Uma's dream of bringing out the meaning of eco-consciousness has come true.
Sustainable fashion seems to be the buzzword in India's fashion industry. People in the industry are now waking up to the harsh reality of over-dependency on natural resources for fashion. In the long run, sustainable fashion will alter the lifestyle of the average Indian, who is fast moving towards western consumerism.
On a positive note, recycling and re-using old fabric has been an old tradition in Indian homes, and therefore, the concept isn't entirely new for people to grasp. International fashion is slowly going eco-friendly as well. Interestingly, Indian prints and organic cotton were similar themes on the runways in Paris and Milan recently.
Auroville's holistic teaching is visible in all of Uma's creations. Earthy, simple and minimalistic, they lack the feel of materialism. In Puducherry, where Auroville is located, Uma and her team stay tuned to their natural surroundings, involved in the lives of the communities and constantly trying to re-invent the way people think, and helping spread the idea of socially responsible art, craft and fashion.
"I count myself as a trendsetter, not a follower. There is a whole consumerist market where you have a huge labour force here but we still don't use. India must showcase healthy consumer behaviour," Uma says thoughtfully, "We aim at no particular market, it is for everybody and we see the results of our projects despite staying away from fierce marketing." Well, we couldn't agree more.