Shawls are more than mere fashion pieces; different types of shawls signify different personalities, writes Hema Anand
A shawl may be a simple form of clothing but it can play a very important role in making a style statement. On a cold winter evening, when you are ready for an outing or dinner party, a shawl will be a versatile accessory which will not only keep you warm but will also compliment any outfit you are wearing. Even though the shawl has been in existence from ancient times, it still commands an important place in every wardrobe.
Many northern and north-eastern states of India produce a wide variety of shawls which are of highest quality and are unbeatable in their beauty and craftsmanship. Each type of shawl therefore, has a special appeal for shawl lovers and a visit to any of these states would be incomplete without bringing back their famous shawls home. Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat, Uttaranchal, and Assam are among the top Indian states that can boast of producing some of the most exquisite shawls in the world.
Kashmiri Shawls
Kashmiri shawls are made from three fibres namely, Pashmina, Shatoosh, and Wool. Kashmiri wool is known as 'Raffel' and is 100% pure. Sometimes blends of cashmillon, cotton, or a mixture of both may be used. The pashmina shawls are the most famous ones made from pashm, which is the wool obtained from the Capra hircus, a species of wild mountain goat. The fine fleece used for these shawls is obtained from the under belly of the animal, which is shed on the approach of summer, and is collected and made into the best quality pashmina shawls. Pashminas are mostly available in their natural colours like off-white, grey, brown, and black, and are seldom dyed.
A little bit of embroidery may however be done. Shatoosh shawls, which are famed as the ring shawl of Kashmir, are made from the beard of the Tibetian antelope called 'chiru'. This beard is shed by the animal while grazing in the high plateaus of Tibet and eastern Ladakh, and is collected by the nomads and supplied to the shawl makers in Kashmir. The central Government has however presently banned the production of the Shatoosh shawl owing to the need for protecting wild life. Papier-mache design embroidered shawls, which are made on soft Kashmiri wool, are one of a kind. Embroidery is done either in broad panels or covering the entire surface of the shawl. Flowers and leaves are worked in chain stitched in bright colours to make an eye catching product. Sozni or needle work shawls are embroidered with floral paisleys, borders, and all-over work with the help of a needle. It is very fine needle work and is done either on pashmina or fine wool fabrics. Aari work of hook embroidery shawls are also a popular product. In this, shawl embroidery is done with the help of a hook to make floral designs finely worked in concentric rings of chain stitch.
Himachal Shawls
The state of Himachal Pradesh is also
famous for its own signature shawls. Himachal shawls are made from mill spun or hand spun yarn. The fibre is marino wool, local sheep wool, pashmina, angora, or even a mixture of these. Chemical or vegetable dyes are used to colour the wool in various hues. Kullu shawls from Himachal Pradesh are made from angora wool obtained from angora rabbits and are known for their geometric patterns and vivid colours. Shawls of Rampur are known for their soft texture and durability. Chamba shawls are in checkered patterns. Thapada is a large embroidered shawl which is unique to handicrafts of Himachal Pradesh. Kinnauri from Kinnaur are made from Yak wool and are a bit coarse but have intricate geometric designs in beautiful colours like yellow, red, blue, green, pink, and white.
Punjabi Shawls
In Punjab, shawls are from khaddar or from angora wool. The specialties of Punjab like Angora, Jamawars, and beaded and embroidered Pashminas, are known for their remarkable beauty and excellent insulating qualities. Traditional 'Phulkari' embroidery is done, which covers almost the entire length and breadth of the shawl, giving it a rich appearance.
Haryana Shawls
The shawl types manufactured in the state of Haryana are Phulkari, Bagh, and Chope. The Phulkari shawl is very gorgeous with elegant embroidery work and attractive colours. The rural women make designs of different types of birds, human figures, and flowers. The designs used on the bagh shawl are inspired by geometric patterns. The chope shawl is ususally gifted to a newly married bride by the groom's grandmother.
Gujarati Shawls
In Gujarat, the craftsmen belonging to the Rann of Kutch make the Dabhla shawls. These shawls are yarned on the traditional looms using cotton and woolen yarn drawn from sheep and have a rugged feel. Usually black, yellow, red, orange, and green are used. Tangail shawls are made from white wool and have a bead-like form. Woolen yarn is mixed with cotton, in which colours are introduced on the loom itself with the help of starch or water from rice. The Kutchi shawls are woven with motifs in one solid colour. These shawls are made from acrylic wool and are dyed in single bright colour throughout. The shawl is woven with traditional kutchi motifs and is processed on handlooms. The attractive Bandhini print shawls are available in floral, abstract, zig-zag, and animal or bird prints in vivid colours, and sometimes mirror work is also done on them.
Uttaranchal Shawls
Uttaranchal is famous for its traditional Pankhi shawls and the state of West Bengal produces the kantar shawls with complex geometric patterns. Shawls from the North Eastern states of Assam, Meghalaya, and Nagaland have a primitive charm of their own. In Meghalaya, endi silk shawls are made from the endi silk produced by the domestic silk worms which feed mostly on castor leaves. The locals make magnificent shawls with natural shades of white, brown, cream, gold, and beige.
Assamese Shawls
Assam is famous for its red and black Naga shawls with geometric shapes, figures of animals, and weapons, that relate to the lifestyle of the Nagas. In Nagaland, the different tribes have varied types of shawls of their own designs. Not everyone in the tribe is allowed to wear any type of shawl, as the shawl (in this tribe) signifies the social standing of the person.
When you are holidaying at any of these places, make sure to bring one for yourself and many more for your loved ones and they are sure to keep you warm for many winters to come.
From a fashion statement to keeping warm to singfying your social status, a shawl goes a long way in mirroring your personality. This is what makes it such a must-have cloth in every wardrobe!
A shawl may be a simple form of clothing but it can play a very important role in making a style statement. On a cold winter evening, when you are ready for an outing or dinner party, a shawl will be a versatile accessory which will not only keep you warm but will also compliment any outfit you are wearing. Even though the shawl has been in existence from ancient times, it still commands an important place in every wardrobe.
Many northern and north-eastern states of India produce a wide variety of shawls which are of highest quality and are unbeatable in their beauty and craftsmanship. Each type of shawl therefore, has a special appeal for shawl lovers and a visit to any of these states would be incomplete without bringing back their famous shawls home. Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat, Uttaranchal, and Assam are among the top Indian states that can boast of producing some of the most exquisite shawls in the world.
Kashmiri Shawls
Kashmiri shawls are made from three fibres namely, Pashmina, Shatoosh, and Wool. Kashmiri wool is known as 'Raffel' and is 100% pure. Sometimes blends of cashmillon, cotton, or a mixture of both may be used. The pashmina shawls are the most famous ones made from pashm, which is the wool obtained from the Capra hircus, a species of wild mountain goat. The fine fleece used for these shawls is obtained from the under belly of the animal, which is shed on the approach of summer, and is collected and made into the best quality pashmina shawls. Pashminas are mostly available in their natural colours like off-white, grey, brown, and black, and are seldom dyed.
A little bit of embroidery may however be done. Shatoosh shawls, which are famed as the ring shawl of Kashmir, are made from the beard of the Tibetian antelope called 'chiru'. This beard is shed by the animal while grazing in the high plateaus of Tibet and eastern Ladakh, and is collected by the nomads and supplied to the shawl makers in Kashmir. The central Government has however presently banned the production of the Shatoosh shawl owing to the need for protecting wild life. Papier-mache design embroidered shawls, which are made on soft Kashmiri wool, are one of a kind. Embroidery is done either in broad panels or covering the entire surface of the shawl. Flowers and leaves are worked in chain stitched in bright colours to make an eye catching product. Sozni or needle work shawls are embroidered with floral paisleys, borders, and all-over work with the help of a needle. It is very fine needle work and is done either on pashmina or fine wool fabrics. Aari work of hook embroidery shawls are also a popular product. In this, shawl embroidery is done with the help of a hook to make floral designs finely worked in concentric rings of chain stitch.
Himachal Shawls
The state of Himachal Pradesh is also
famous for its own signature shawls. Himachal shawls are made from mill spun or hand spun yarn. The fibre is marino wool, local sheep wool, pashmina, angora, or even a mixture of these. Chemical or vegetable dyes are used to colour the wool in various hues. Kullu shawls from Himachal Pradesh are made from angora wool obtained from angora rabbits and are known for their geometric patterns and vivid colours. Shawls of Rampur are known for their soft texture and durability. Chamba shawls are in checkered patterns. Thapada is a large embroidered shawl which is unique to handicrafts of Himachal Pradesh. Kinnauri from Kinnaur are made from Yak wool and are a bit coarse but have intricate geometric designs in beautiful colours like yellow, red, blue, green, pink, and white.
Punjabi Shawls
In Punjab, shawls are from khaddar or from angora wool. The specialties of Punjab like Angora, Jamawars, and beaded and embroidered Pashminas, are known for their remarkable beauty and excellent insulating qualities. Traditional 'Phulkari' embroidery is done, which covers almost the entire length and breadth of the shawl, giving it a rich appearance.
Haryana Shawls
The shawl types manufactured in the state of Haryana are Phulkari, Bagh, and Chope. The Phulkari shawl is very gorgeous with elegant embroidery work and attractive colours. The rural women make designs of different types of birds, human figures, and flowers. The designs used on the bagh shawl are inspired by geometric patterns. The chope shawl is ususally gifted to a newly married bride by the groom's grandmother.
Gujarati Shawls
In Gujarat, the craftsmen belonging to the Rann of Kutch make the Dabhla shawls. These shawls are yarned on the traditional looms using cotton and woolen yarn drawn from sheep and have a rugged feel. Usually black, yellow, red, orange, and green are used. Tangail shawls are made from white wool and have a bead-like form. Woolen yarn is mixed with cotton, in which colours are introduced on the loom itself with the help of starch or water from rice. The Kutchi shawls are woven with motifs in one solid colour. These shawls are made from acrylic wool and are dyed in single bright colour throughout. The shawl is woven with traditional kutchi motifs and is processed on handlooms. The attractive Bandhini print shawls are available in floral, abstract, zig-zag, and animal or bird prints in vivid colours, and sometimes mirror work is also done on them.
Uttaranchal Shawls
Uttaranchal is famous for its traditional Pankhi shawls and the state of West Bengal produces the kantar shawls with complex geometric patterns. Shawls from the North Eastern states of Assam, Meghalaya, and Nagaland have a primitive charm of their own. In Meghalaya, endi silk shawls are made from the endi silk produced by the domestic silk worms which feed mostly on castor leaves. The locals make magnificent shawls with natural shades of white, brown, cream, gold, and beige.
Assamese Shawls
Assam is famous for its red and black Naga shawls with geometric shapes, figures of animals, and weapons, that relate to the lifestyle of the Nagas. In Nagaland, the different tribes have varied types of shawls of their own designs. Not everyone in the tribe is allowed to wear any type of shawl, as the shawl (in this tribe) signifies the social standing of the person.
When you are holidaying at any of these places, make sure to bring one for yourself and many more for your loved ones and they are sure to keep you warm for many winters to come.
From a fashion statement to keeping warm to singfying your social status, a shawl goes a long way in mirroring your personality. This is what makes it such a must-have cloth in every wardrobe!