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Matter of style from men of substance

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First, a confession: I still wear my cap backward when I play tennis, even at a certain age.

So I come subjectively to this subject as I note that many years after the Swedish pro Mikael Pernfors inspired some of my generation of hackers to reverse our caps, and years after Australias Lleyton Hewitt made it definitively a thing in tennis, members of the new wave have acquired the taste, too.

They include the American Jack Sock, Lucas Pouille of France, Karen Khachanov of Russia and the flashy Canadian teenager Denis Shapovalov.

It has never been an entirely logical choice.

The point of a cap in tennis is, first and foremost, to keep the sun out of your eyes - the sort of sun that has been beating down on the players all week at this torrid Australian Open.

But the only way to keep the sun off your face is if the bill of the cap is facing the traditional direction.

"Backwards makes absolutely zero sense," said Brad Gilbert, an ESPN analyst and a longtime coach.

And yet Hewitts sartorial legacy seems safe and sound, even if it once appeared that the backward cap might go the way of the wooden racket in tennis when he finally faded from the scene.

Hewitt, 36, is not gone quite yet. After retiring at the Australian Open in 2016, he keeps coming back for cameos and is playing doubles in Melbourne with his good friend Sam Groth for Groths farewell tournament.

Guess which direction their caps were pointing when they won their first-round match last Thursday?

Hewitt has been wearing his that way since the beginning. Darren Cahill, who is also from Adelaide, Australia, remembers getting a call from Hewitts parents about the possibility of coaching him and then getting a knock on his door.

It was Hewitt, age 12, with his cap on backward.

"The first conversation with him, I asked, Why?" Cahill said.

"And he said, I just like it backwards. And I said, Arent you supposed to wear the peak of the cap to protect your nose and eyes and keep your eyes out of the sun?, and he said, No, I just like it backwards.

"And so I said, All right. That was honestly the first time Id ever seen it, and I think it was like a 10-second conversation, and I never asked him again. I think he wore that same cap for about three years straight."

Hewitt went on to beat Pete Sampras in a backward cap to win his first major title at the 2001 US Open, and though there were some notable bareheaded moments, including the Wimbledon final he won in 2002, the look was and remains his signature.

The younger set noticed.

"I started wearing a cap backwards just because I thought it was cool, to be honest," said Nick Kyrgios, the new and more unpredictable Australian No 1. "Just wearing that cap backwards meant that sort of grinding mentality. Lleyton sort of made that his own sort of thing."

Beyond tennis, the backward cap has a long history and the look is now ubiquitous: Barack Obama wears his cap backward on vacation, Paul Ryan in the weight room. But in tennis at least, the time for resistance has seemingly passed.

On court, the backward cap is indeed a grinder thing, a dig-in-and-do-whatever-it- takes-to-win the-marathon-point thing.

It might not keep the sun out of our eyes, but it can still keep some of the sweat out of our eyes. And once you get used to wearing one, it is also a security blanket in a sport where habits - good, bad or otherwise - can be hard to break.

"Ive been wearing my cap backwards for about five or six years now," said Maximilian Marterer, a 22-year-old German who qualified for the Australian Open. "I did it at first because I had long hair, and I wanted to keep it in place. But I cut it, and I dont really need it anymore. Its confidence, so Im keeping it."

Rafael Nadal, arranger of beverage bottles and adjuster of shorts, knows this all too well.

The French veterans Adrian Mannarino and Richard Gasquet also have been wearing their caps backward - a now-unusual move for Gasquet, who was once urged to ditch the style by a leading French tennis writer who saw it as a sign of his inability to grow up (or intimidate his opponents).

"Who is afraid of a backwards cap and the childlike silhouette it creates?" Philippe Bouin wrote in LEquipe 2007.

"Come on!" Hewitt might have barked in response.

Some have definitively moved on, though.

It is largely forgotten that Federer, the balletic antithesis of the grinder, wore his cap backward for much of the match when he made his Grand Slam debut at the French Open in 1999 at age 17, losing in the first round to the Australian star Patrick Rafter.

He soon switched to bandannas and started reserving the reversed cap for practice sessions, just like his longtime rival Rafael Nadal, even if Nadal seems much more of a natural for the get-down-to-business look.

Very few women have joined in: Eleni Daniilidou of Greece and Akgul Amanmuradova of Uzbekistan on occasion; Martina Navratilova in the very late phases of her long career.

But then few women wear caps at all on court. Even in the Australian heat, most opted for visors this week.

Daria Kasatkina, the rising Russian, says it is a ponytail problem: Put the hat backward and the ponytail rides too low.

Lucie Safarova, the Czech tennis star, thinks "women probably want to look more feminine with the visor, and the backwards look is more masculine."

Tastes and perceptions change, however, and as Hewitt exits and the Socks and Shapovalovs and the rest of us carry on, who knows who will be inspired next?


Confronting the devil

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Armed with pieces of paper etched with their memories of sexual abuse, they stepped forward, one by one - nearly 100 of them, with more to come.

For four full days this week, in a fluorescent-lighted courtroom in Lansing, Michigan, women and girls - some of them the best gymnasts in the United States, others with dreams prematurely crushed, they said, by a man who now sat in handcuffs 10 feet away - leaned into a microphone to address him, sometimes through sobs, sometimes with screams, but always with determination.

Aly Raisman, 23, who won gold medals at the past two Summer Olympics, told of late-night knocks on her hotel door while she was competing overseas, as the man, Lawrence G Nassar, then the team doctor, arrived to abuse her.

A teammate at the 2012 London Games, Jordyn Wieber, who until Friday had not identified herself as a victim of Nassars, recalled the torment of the Games, where she was a part of the US team that won a gold medal but, she said, had to submit to his care under the auspices of the sports governing body, USA Gymnastics.

"Our bodies were all hanging by a thread in London," Wieber, 22, said. "Who was the doctor that USAG sent? The doctor who was our abuser."

For other young athletes just striking out, there seemed little they could do but give in, buckling under the pressure of knowing so many stars had seemingly benefited from him. And so a young gymnast named Chelsea Zerfas, now 15, spoke of anguished probing, under the guise of treatment, face down on an exam room table when she was 13, feeling helpless to challenge a doctor at that age.

The occasion of the hearing, to help a judge decide Nassars prospective sentence on state charges of nearly a dozen sexual assaults, appeared almost beside the point. He had been sentenced to 60 years in federal prison on a child pornography conviction, and the judge in this state court hearing has said that Nassar, 54, who has pleaded guilty to several sexual-assault charges, can expect to spend the rest of his life in prison.

But before then, she allowed victim impact statements from the 140 girls and women whom prosecutors accuse Nassar of abusing, leading to days of wrenching testimony that has evolved into not only a nationally televised reckoning of his crimes but an indictment of a sport that his victims say did little to protect them.

At the same time, the hearing has dovetailed with the continued expansion of the #MeToo movement that seeks to hold predatory men to account - in this case, in excruciating detail.

"Come hell or high water, we will find a way to take every last one of you down that could have stopped this monster," said Amy Labadie, a former gymnast who testified Friday. She added, "Its hard to see into the future and not think this will affect me forever."

Some of the victims described how the team doctors actions spawned suicidal thoughts and ruptured their families, how they hoped he would rot in prison, and how they desperately wanted the blame and repercussions to extend far beyond him - to the people and the organisations that turned a blind eye.

"Imagine feeling like you have no power and no voice," Raisman said. "Well, you know what, Larry? I have both power and voice, and I am only just beginning to use them. All these brave women have power, and we will use our voices to make sure you get what you deserve: a life of suffering spent replaying the words delivered by this powerful army of survivors."

Nassar pleaded guilty in November to seven counts of sexual assault, and his sentencing hearing, which began Tuesday, is now expected to continue next week, as the number of women who have wanted to speak in court has grown, from 88 to 105 to 120, at last count - emboldened by what has happened this week. Judge Rosemarie Aquilina said she had cleared her docket.

"You are all superheroes," the judge said after one of the victims, choking back tears, read her statement.

Raisman took clear aim at both USA Gymnastics and the US Olympic Committee. "Neither USA Gymnastics nor the USOC have reached out to express sympathy or even offer support," she said. "Not even to ask: How did this happen? What do you think we can do to help? Why have I and others here, probably, not heard anything from the leadership at the USOC? Why has the United States Olympic Committee been silent? Why isnt the USOC here right now?"

Mark Jones, a spokesman for the Olympic committee, said in a statement that it first became aware of the possibility that a physician with the gymnastics federation had been abusing athletes in 2015.

"At that time, USA Gymnastics indicated that they were in the process of contacting the appropriate law enforcement agencies," Jones said. "We are heartbroken that this abuse occurred, proud of the brave victims that have come forward and grateful that our criminal justice system has ensured that Nassar will never be able to harm another young woman."

At the same time, Jones said, the Olympic committee will continue to press for "meaningful change" in the gymnastics federation.

The federation has announced that it would cut ties with Karolyi Ranch, a renowned training facility that was one of the places where Nassar molested the gymnasts.

The impact of the trial, and Nassars history of assault, is spreading well beyond the courtroom. Michigan State University, which employed Nassar, was also facing increasing pressure after revelations that 14 people, including the president, Lou Anna K Simon, had been warned about his conduct.

Raisman added that she had not been planning to speak in court - "I was scared and nervous," she said - but decided to add her name to the list once she began listening to the impact statements that were delivered earlier this week.

"My dream," she said, "is that one day everyone will know what the words me, too signify, but they will be educated and able to protect themselves from predators like Larry so that they will never, ever, ever have to say the words, me, too."

The room filled with applause as Raisman thanked the judge and backed away from the microphone. More women were waiting their turn.

Ready for some market crash?

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How good it would have been if we could control everything thats happening in our lives with just a click of a button. Though in reality, thats not possible, what seems to be possible now is controlling the prices of your favourite drinks thanks to the concept of bar stock exchange, that is fast catching up with many pubs and bars in the city.

Places like Tipsy Bull and Hammered Exchange run on the stock exchange concept, in which prices of the drinks change based on real-time demand and supply. This is supported by an app that helps customers keep a track of the fluctuating prices.

Tipsy Bull started the bar stock exchange concept three years back with its first branch in Bellandur. Explaining this concept further, director of Tipsy Bull, Arjun Singh, says, "Just like a stock market here, the prices of the drinks fluctuate. If the demand for a drink is higher, the price is higher and when the demand is less, the price is automatically less. To make it more engaging, customers can download an app and order their drinks directly rather than waiting for the server. To add to this excitement, we have frequent market crashes where people get a chance to steal the deal with all the prices dropping down drastically."

With this place pioneering the concept in the city, this bar has managed to attract many pub-goers to explore this fresh idea. Calling this concept a welcome break from the monotonous pub and bar visits is Farah Magi, a fashion blogger. She says, "It keeps the customers enthusiasm high throughout. Besides, there are times when the price of a drink drops to as low as Rs 50. The anticipation for such a low price itself is exciting.

Will this concept last among youngsters? "Some bars are doing great with this concept. There are many youngsters who end up visiting these places just for the experience. We, millennials, tend to get bored easily with the ordinary, so such out-of-the-box ideas attract us a lot," she adds.

Hoping that this concept is extended to food too, P Subramoni, a technical manager says, "Not many people step out only for drinks. It should be broadened to include food as well. The bar stock exchange is a fairly new concept but it is really catching up. It is a fun and a noble idea and is sure to stick around for a couple of more years."

While there are a few bars and pubs that work with the stock exchange concept, Agent Jacks Bar works on the concept of bidding on drinks. Its co-founder, Pramod says, "Usually, going out in Bengaluru is an expensive affair. This is the reason why many people have restricted themselves to house parties and get-togethers. With an interactive concept like bidding, it is not just cheap drinks that is the target but enjoyment with a reasonable bill at the end."

"Agent Jacks Bar is a Pune-based company and we have partnered in Bengaluru. There is a fun and engaging software-based application that helps customers bid their range. There will already be a fixed price shown on the screen and then a market price and the last least accepted bid for the day. The customer has to strike their bid to the nearest bidding range. Great food, great drinks and a great price are what we look forward to presenting our customers," he adds.

With such unique concepts getting popular by the day, now pub-goers are having a good time without burning a hole in the pocket.

'I look up to Ed Sheeran a lot'

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City-based solo artiste Teenasai Balamu is living her dream by making her own music and performing at varied gigs. The singer-songwriter who aims to release her EP soon is excited about how its shaping up. In a candid chat with Tini Sara Anien, she talks about her latest tracks and more.

Did your entry into the music arena happen by accident?

I was trying different things like copywriting and helping a college senior with producing shoots. As a child, I used to take keyboard lessons but I left them soon. I joined Carnatic music classes soon and my bond with music grew. One fine day, I recorded myself singing Riptide by Vance Joy and posted it on YouTube. Cutting the long story short, the video went viral and the right people saw it and before I knew it I was offered gigs across the city.

What kind of music connects to you?

I connect to music which is melodious, indie folk, pop amidst other mainstream music and contemporary folk tunes.

What attracted you to indie-pop and alternative music?

I was deeply influenced by bands like The Lumineers which inspired me to try the independent music scene. The interest in alternative music came from my love for rock music during high school.

How is the indie-pop and alternative music circuit in Bengaluru?

Thankfully we have an audience which encourages independent music. Music listeners in Bengaluru are very receptive and encouraging.

Tell us about your bond with your guitar.

I feel naked without my guitar. Ninety-nine percent of the time, I perform with my guitar. I am almost never seen on stage without it. Music means honesty for me. Some people express themselves best when they are writing, I express myself best through my music and with my guitar.

What is more exciting, performing or writing music?

I am often anxious when I am on stage but after my performance, I feel exhilarated and deeply satisfied. While writing, once I have penned my song down, play it and sent it to my friends, I feel excited. Both of these activities come with a fair share of adrenaline rush.

When youre with your friends and someone asks you to play a song, which one is it usually?

Creep by Radiohead. Its a beautiful song and I somehow connect to it in a way I cant explain.

How is your EP coming along?

My EP will be out soon. Of the six tracks in the EP, three of them are Wait For You, which is one of my first songs; another interesting number called 28 and an experimental track called Its You.

Could you list a song that affects you deeply?

Same Love, a song by American hip-hop duo Macklemore & Ryan Lewis.

Is there any artiste you can listen to anytime of the day?

Ed Sheeran! I love his songwriting and I look up to him a lot.

What was the last song you heard?

A really intriguing number called I Like Me Better by Lauv.

Treasured bonding

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This picture was taken during our family trip to Bannerghatta National Park in 1985 when I was five years old. In the first row, the two who are standing (from left) are my elder brother Jagdish and Murali, who is my husband now. In the second row is myself Jamuna (pointing finger at my father who is taking the picture) and next to me is my second elder brother Krishna.

It is 32 years since this picture was taken. I just have a faint memory of us visiting the Bannerghatta park because of a funny/scary incident that happened. My father who was quite an adventurous person had taken us for a walk inside the safari area. After walking for some time, I remember many people who were on their way back telling my father not to proceed further as there were some elephants on the road, but my father kept all of us walking. Soon after than we all heard elephants trumpeting and the sound was very near. Next, all I remember was someone from my family carrying me and running towards the safari entrance. Oh! What a thrilling experience it was.

I and my two elder brothers are from Peenya. Murali was from Bellary and he used to visit us during vacations as he was my mothers elder brothers son. As many agree, children born before 80s are the luckiest ones as we had one of the loveliest childhoods. We played from dawn to dusk. Murali who used to visit us on every vacation was the prankster amongst us but we three always looked forward for his visit as we all enjoyed his pranks.

My brothers and Murali got along very well ( of course they also used to fight) and went often outside to play all sort of games on earth, roaming around entire Peenya industrial area. My cousin sisters, brothers and me joined them too sometimes. Our games varied from season to season; lagori, marbles, kite flying, skipping, hopping, hide and seek etc. Our parents never interfered in our games or fights and we sorted our own riffles and I think that gave us our own wisdom of life. Our group games taught us how to be cooperative and taught us life skills and even developed leadership skills.

After my marriage to Murali, the bond between us became much strong and more precious. We four have retained our bonding with each other till day. We do still fight like cats and dogs, we do pull each other legs, we do support each other thick and thin, we hang out crazily, we obnoxiously make fun of each other, we love each other and pray for each others wellbeing. I have one daughter now who is in eighth grade. Both my brothers are having two kids each.

We four of us recently took a similar picture like we did 32 years ago. I thank God for such a wonderful soulful journey that we are sharing.

'I am never idle'

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Bollywood actor Anshuman Jha started his career as a theatre artiste at a very young age. He made a name for himself in this world and is best known for his work in the movie Love Sex Aur Dhokha. His performance in his last four releases Yeh Hai Bakrapur, X: Past Is Present, Chauranga and Mona Darling has been widely applauded. Anshuman also turned a producer with Mona Darling under his banner First Ray Films. Anshuman will next be seen in movies Angrezi Mein Kehte, Robinhood Ke Pote and Ishwar.

The talented actor talks to Surupasree Sarmmah about his journey in the industry.

You started your career with the movie Love Sex Aur Dhokha (LSD) which was a hit. How did you get into acting?

My acting career began long back with Prithvi Theatre when I did my first play at fifteen. It was called Jhagrapoor by Ramnath Tharwal. It all began there. I am from Delhi and used to visit Mumbai to visit my sister. She used to put me into these summertime acting workshops at Prithvi Theatre. One play led to the other and it so happened that during one such workshop, Ramnath Tharwal cast me in his play and then it became a yearly routine. I soon completed my Diploma Acting Course at Barry Johns Academy. I also acted in Berrys Its All About Money Honey. But, as a famous director once told me, I look like a kid, so I should not look for work until I am 24 or 25, therefore, I only did theatre and worked as an assistant director for a few films. I went for a screen test for LSD and they selected me. Thats how it started.

An experience you cherish from your journey till now?

The first call of confirmation for LSD. It is so well enriched in the memory. Director Dibakar Banerjee is my favourite filmmaker in India and I had absolutely loved his previous movie Khosla Ka Ghosla. Getting an opportunity to work with him was a dream come true.

You have also assisted Shubash Ghai for three years, how was that experience?

Phenomenal! It was like a blessing for me. Khalnayak is again one of my favourite films from the 90s and Subhash Ghai is someone who has given so many blockbusters to the industry. I worked with him on a film called Black and White which was a very different movie than what he usually makes. The kind of exposure I have got working with him taught me a lot. I dont have a Godfather in the industry but I can say I have many guide fathers, who came to my life at different points and guided me to become an actor.

Which genre would you like to explore?

My next film is called Angrezi Mein Kehte, which is a romantic comedy. This was one genre I wanted to do and I am really glad, I got a chance. This movie is a comedy with a lot of soul in it. For me, it is not genre specific, but films where I get to work with great and different kind of directors. Zoya Akhtar and Sriram Raghavan are two directors I would like to work with.

Any advice that changed your life...

There are a few actually. Shubhash Ghai once told me, more than looking and talking like an actor, you should wait like an actor, dont be in a hurry. Anurag Kashyap told me to keep working on myself. And thats what I have been doing. Whenever I have free time, I keep learning a new craft;
either a new form of martial arts or take up dance and singing classes. I am never idle.

Your all-time favourite movie...

Rush by Ron Howard. I am a huge Formula One fan and this movie was a delight to watch.

Going for the quill

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Swarna Reddy is a person of few words; she prefers to let her work do the talking. She makes no grandiose claims about childhood passion or chasing dreams. Her association with art is just like her creations - pure and simple.

"I was into embroidery earlier and was very particular towards certain styles like Kasuti. We were based in Raichur initially and I used to teach embroidery and tailoring there. Then we came to Bangalore and I got a job as an arts and crafts teacher in Army Public School. Since I couldnt teach embroidery to the small children, I turned towards quilling," she says.

It has been more than a decade after that and now Swarna is deeply interested in quilling. Cards, paper bags and other artefacts are transformed by her nimble fingers into colourful works of art. Orders are taken up on a regular basis but for her, it is all about the satisfaction.

"When I sit to quill, I usually forget the world around me. I concentrate intensely on what I am making and if there is a particular design that I want to make, I will keep working on it till I get it right," she says and adds, "I do it whenever I get some spare time; like when I am watching television or during mornings after everyone leaves for work."

While greeting cards with floral motifs are her favourites, she considers the quilled Ganesha as her masterpiece. The first such work was kept for herself though she created a replica for a friend later on.

"If I make something for someone, the design will depend on their preferences and personality. Most of my friends and family members have received a handmade gift from me and they love it."

Talking about her family, Swarna says, "All my sisters used to do embroidery but no one does this type of work. I learned it all on my own and my post graduation degree in home science helped in furthering my interest in the field of crafts. My immediate family is happy about my interest and encourage me in all ways possible. My sons buy me any type of material I want, sometimes from places like the USA. Otherwise, I source things from Itsy Bitsy or MK Stores in Jayanagar."

Patience is key to this field. "It is time-consuming. You have to painstakingly look into all the finer details and ensure neatness of work at the same time. While a normal card can take close to two hours to finish, the bigger ones take up to 3-4 hours each," she explains.

Swarna now plans to come up with items that will merge her interest in quilling with her talent in punch craft.

When Tuffy gets going

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Having a pet at home has become a necessity for me. I cant even imagine my house without my dog. Growing up, my mom used to have pet dogs at home but she also took care of all the stray dogs in her lane. This habit of hers was passed down to my sister and me as well.

Even though we had two dogs at home, we would still look after all the stray dogs which didnt have homes. We would treat them exactly how we treated our own pets Tuffy and Chintu.

Tuffy, my eight-and-a-half-year-old German Shepherd, was gifted to me when I was in the fifth grade. Now she has become the most important part of my life. I remember when we first brought her home, she used to be a very shy dog, it took her a while to get used to all of us especially since we already had a Pomeranian at home.

People who say dogs dont get attached to their owners or dont have any emotion have never truly bonded with animals. Some time ago, my sister had just left for the US and I was really missing her. I was in my room all alone crying and Tuffy sneaked into my room, sat beside me and started hugging me to try and comfort me. People might find this little gesture stupid and might not pay much heed to it, but I believe it is these little moments that truly show how well our pets understand us and care for us.

In my experience, dogs communicate mostly through their eyes, if you ever look into the eyes of your pet, you will be able to truly understand them. Tuffy communicates with me through her eyes, helping me understand her better. She also has her own unique ways of communicating with me, like when she sniffs me and realises that I had just met another dog, she will immediately start ignoring me and giving me the silent treatment. She will only communicate to me after I have thoroughly apologised to her.

But having a pet is not all fun and games, keeping them happy and healthy requires a lot of time and effort. Once you have a pet, you can no longer be selfish and just think about yourself, you will always need to think about your pet first. In a way having a pet is kind of similar to having a baby. My family finds it very hard to go on trips and holidays since we all feel guilty leaving Tuffy behind. Although we never leave her alone and ensure there is always someone taking care of her when were away, be it a neighbour or a relative, it is still heartbreaking to leave your pets behind.

Its a devastating experience when you lose a pet, our first ever pet Chintu, who had been living with us for the last 13 years passed away when I was 14 years old.

He had been a part of the family for almost as long as me, so when he passed away it was one of the saddest times of my life.

No matter how much trouble you have to undergo in order to take care of your pets, it is all worth it in the end. The love and affection you receive from them is incomparable.


Storm in a cup

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There are few things that signal urban elite as strongly as a take-away beverage cup. From the busy young professional to the affluent youngster, not many people think twice before grabbing a cup of overpriced coffee or cold drink in a disposable container.

While this may seem like a convenient option for those on the go, the associated costs are huge - and we are not just talking about the moolah that you shell out. Thousands of disposable cups make their way to Bengalurus already overflowing landfills on a daily basis and are an added burden to a city grappling with a gargantuan garbage problem.

The case is the same around the globe. Lawmakers in the United Kingdom are now debating a new tax, termed latte levy, on disposable cups in an effort to cut down on waste. Is it time that a similar concept was implemented here too?

Says Ashwini Devadiga, a professional, "What is first needed is a change in the mindset of the consumers. People need to recognise that even though their cups may look recyclable because of the paper exteriors, there is a water-proof plastic lining inside and this prevents it from decomposing. Maybe food outlets can look at giving discounts to people who bring their own cups while the government can pass a bill that disincentivises the use of use-and-throw containers."

She adds, "I initially started carrying my own mug when malls and other outlets stopped providing lids for such cups but over time it has become a habit for me."

The need for a change in thinking is imperative. As research scholar Meera Kamal points out, "A small tax will hardly be a deterrent for people who are willing to pay Rs 150 for a cup of coffee which they can get for Rs 30 somewhere else. For them, it is about the psychological satisfaction that the brand gives."

Old habits die hard unless there is sufficient motivation to turn to a new practice. Price signals are not all that consumers pay attention to; when people see others around them adopting to a new lifestyle, the main thing at work is the herd mentality. When the use of plastic bags was discouraged, the awareness-campaigns were helped in part by the actual sight of many people carrying jute or tote bags and that led to a rise in popularity of the notion.

With the country fast running out of landfills and with a scarcity of non-conventional recycling plants, the onus is equally on the big coffee and fast food chains and the government to ensure that a sustainable solution is presented. A small portion of their significantly huge budgets can be spent on research and development to design eco-friendly alternatives that are both cost-effective as well as aesthetically pleasing.

One can also return to the roots and go for traditional choices. While Ashwini says that bamboo cups are a good option, Meera thinks that anything from mud or steel cups to ceramic pots can be promoted.

They say if coffee cant fix it, then it is a serious problem. Let us ensure that our coffee itself doesnt turn into one.

Aesthetic individualism

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Anmi is a line of contemporary ethnic clothing, inspired by the fact that every woman is unique in her own way. It offers a range of contemporary ethnic wear like short and long kurtis, A-line kurta to contemporary long kurtis with palazzo and wide-legged pants.

"Our latest line offers pieces that can be transformed into multiple styles and looks. A flared kurta can be worn as a dress or a long kurta can be paired with denims. Anmi has always been about comfortable yet trendy clothing," explains Rishi Vasudev, vice president, Flipkart Fashion.

Elaborating on each of the categories, Rishi says that Anmi targets the fashion forward women who love to wear their clothes as an individualistic style statement. He says that Ikat range consists of geometric patterns structured in a attractive way and those in the Indigo range are crafted in blues and motifs that breakaway from the traditional mould. "The Indigo range is inspired by the indigo block prints of Jaipur, ensuring a fresh contemporary look. Another addition to the collection is the Quirky range which is vibrant, fresh, playful and totally unorthodox, and finally the must-have range has neat cuts and is made of natural fabrics," says Rishi.

He adds that the designers have consciously used a myriad of colours like pink, orange, yellows and Indigo. The designs are an outcome of the research findings of the brand team. "This collection is popular with young women because we have delivered exactly what the customer wants. The information that we gather from our research is deep, specific and exhaustive. For example, findings of what kind of consumer wears a mandarin collar, what colour works in which demography, what fabrics move the fastest off the shelves -- these insights lie at the very foundation of our designing processes, along with a strong sense of fashion aesthetic," says Rishi.

Vindya Niron, a student of Mount Carmel College, wore a red cotton ikat-print kurta and paired it with yellow palazzos.
Punchline: "I liked this outfit because it is good for everyday wear and suits women of all age groups."
Price: Kurta (Rs 967) and palazzos (Rs 849).

Aafreen K, a student of NIFT, chose to wear a Bohemian style kurta with a white legging.
Punchline: "The colours are bright and its perfect for a college goer. I like the prints on the kurta and one has a wide range of palazzos to choose from."
Price: Kurta (Rs 599) and leggings (Rs 349).

Ritu Ghanghas, a student of Indian Institute of Science, wore a indigo shirt kurta with blue palazzos.
Punchline: "The combination of white and blue is always appealing. It is chic and perfect for a casual outing with friends.
Price: Kurta (Rs 1,045) and palazzos (Rs 849).

Priyanka K, a student of Mount Carmel College, picked up a black and orange asymmetrical kurta and paired it with black palazzos.
Punchline: " The clothes are great when it comes to design, comfort and style.
Price: Kurta (Rs 967) and palazzos (Rs 849).

Ashika Haresh, a student of CMR Law School, slipped into a yellow Ikat-print yellow kurta and white palazzos.
Punchline: "The style of this outfit is extremely flattering and the colour is bright. The prints on the collar make it one-of-a-kind."
Price: Kurta (Rs 936) and palazzos (Rs 849).

Malaika Susan Mathew, a student of Mount Carmel College, picked up an indigo round-neck kurta and paired it with black leggings.
Punchline: "The prints on the kurta suit the taste of young girls and is comfortable.
Price: Kurta (Rs 1,045) and leggings (Rs 349).

The poster parade

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The powers that be may tom-tom their elaborate plans to beautify the city and restore its greenery but the one thing that catches your attention as you move around are posters and banners of politicians hung at strategic locations. The authorities are doing nothing about the proliferating posters and hoardings displayed on roads, lamp posts, trees and walls and near flyovers as well.

Most of them flaunt a picture of the local MLA, minister or some political heavyweight. Some posters that sprung up during Christmas and New Year continue to stay on, keeping the forthcoming elections in mind.

The longer the visibility, the better it is, seems to be the mantra of most politicians. But citizens havent taken too well to this. Rajeshwari Roy, a resident of Ejipura, says that the first thing that greets her every morning when she leaves home is the life-size poster of a politician. "It is terrible to see these posters in every corner of the city. More than putting up posters of themselves, I think politicians must focus on the development of the citys infrastructure," says Rajeshwari. She also attributes the increase in the number of posters to the forthcoming elections.

"These posters are being put because politicians want people to notice them. Subconsciously, I also think people will remember them because we have seen the posters so many times," she adds.

Posters and buntings add to the piled up waste in the city, feels Aneeta George, a student of St Josephs College of Commerce. "Posters hung on electric poles and pasted on walls are an eyesore. I think politicians should find a better way to publicise their work. At a time when efforts are being made to render the city clean, I feel pasting posters not only defaces the citys landscape but also sends out a wrong message to the people," says Aneeta.

Sahithi P, another student, adds, "These posters are not useful to the public. It only benefits a handful of politicians. I dont think people even bother to look at these posters."

Government officials and politicians will be noticed only if they do good work like providing citizens with better roads and safer spaces, feel Lidwina Lucas and Jessica Y, both students. "I dont connect with the faces that I see on the posters and I dont even know who they are. Why should I throw a second glance at them?" wonders Lidwina. She feels the poster parade across the city is an election gimmick. Jessica pitches in, "My vote in the coming elections will not depend on the faces on the posters but on the development carried out for the benefit of citizens by the government."

Sharing a outsiders perspective, Paula Peitrowski, a native of Cologne in Germany who recently relocated to the city for work, says that she has seen life-size posters near her house in the northern part of the city.

"The posters dont look good. I have always wondered who the faces on the posters are. Are they famous people or politicians? A similar thing happens in my city whenever there are elections. You have politicians seeking votes through slogans and campaigns printed on posters," concludes Paula.

'I am never idle'

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Bollywood actor Anshuman Jha started his career as a theatre artiste at a very young age. He made a name for himself in this world and is best known for his work in the movie Love Sex Aur Dhokha. His performance in his last four releases Yeh Hai Bakrapur, X: Past Is Present, Chauranga and Mona Darling has been widely applauded. Anshuman also turned a producer with Mona Darling under his banner First Ray Films. Anshuman will next be seen in movies Angrezi Mein Kehte, Robinhood Ke Pote and Ishwar. The talented actor talks to Surupasree Sarmmah about his journey in the industry.

You started your career with the movie Love Sex Aur Dhokha (LSD) which was a hit. How did you get into acting?

My acting career began long back with Prithvi Theatre when I did my first play at fifteen. It was called Jhagrapoor by Ramnath Tharwal. It all began there. I am from Delhi and used to visit Mumbai to visit my sister. She used to put me into these summertime acting workshops at Prithvi Theatre. One play led to the other and it so happened that during one such workshop, Ramnath Tharwal cast me in his play and then it became a yearly routine. I soon completed my Diploma Acting Course at Barry Johns Academy. I also acted in Berrys Its All About Money Honey. But, as a famous director once told me, I look like a kid, so I should not look for work until I am 24 or 25, therefore, I only did theatre and worked as an assistant director for a few films. I went for a screen test for LSD and they selected me. Thats how it started.

An experience you cherish from your journey till now?

The first call of confirmation for LSD. It is so well enriched in the memory. Director Dibakar Banerjee is my favourite filmmaker in India and I had absolutely loved his previous movie Khosla Ka Ghosla. Getting an opportunity to work with him was a dream come true.

You have also assisted Shubash Ghai for three years, how was that experience?

Phenomenal! It was like a blessing for me. Khalnayak is again one of my favourite films from the 90s and Subhash Ghai is someone who has given so many blockbusters to the industry. I worked with him on a film called Black and White which was a very different movie than what he usually makes. The kind of exposure I have got working with him taught me a lot. I dont have a Godfather in the industry but I can say I have many guide fathers, who came to my life at different points and guided me to become an actor.

Which genre would you like to explore?

My next film is called Angrezi Mein Kehte, which is a romantic comedy. This was one genre I wanted to do and I am really glad, I got a chance. This movie is a comedy with a lot of soul in it. For me, it is not genre specific, but films where I get to work with great and different kind of directors. Zoya Akhtar and Sriram Raghavan are two directors I would like to work with.

Any advice that changed your life...

There are a few actually. Shubhash Ghai once told me, more than looking and talking like an actor, you should wait like an actor, dont be in a hurry. Anurag Kashyap told me to keep working on myself. And thats what I have been doing. Whenever I have free time, I keep learning a new craft; either a new form of martial arts or take up dance and singing classes. I am never idle.

Your all-time favourite movie...

Rush by Ron Howard. I am a huge Formula One fan and this movie was a delight to watch.

It's never too cold for ice cream

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A very popular song of the 1920s â€" "I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream for Ice Cream" â€" epitomised the excitement and glee among young and old alike, at the very mention of the sweet, milky, chilled delight.

And, if one could grab a scoop every day, it would truly be a dear Dairy Day! It is this growing, craving demand and opportunity that is getting Bengalurus very own ice cream maker â€" Dairy Classic Ice Creams â€" to plan its way through a challenging, yet opportune and rewarding market such as India.

Beginning with a scoop

In December 2002, a very passionate
M N Jaganath, getting wind of a burgeoning demand for ice creams, joined hands with A Balaraju and rented a small place at Doddakallasandra, Bengaluru, and set up an ice cream unit.

Both boasted robust MNC foundations, with Jaganath having acumen in sales, finance and marketing, while Balaraju had technical experience in the food industry, including the ice cream space.

"Gradually, we got together with other key employees, who became shareholders, but with specific responsibilities. With the help of angel investors, unsecured loans, equity and other resources, we were able to invest close to Rs 1 crore during inception," Jaganath, who is also a Director of Dairy Classic Ice Creams, told DH.

"We just took the plunge, and within a few months saw success, as acceptance for our brand, product, and packaging grew. Within the first 3-4 months of launch itself, we went on sale at most departmental stores and supermarkets. Repeat sales were growing, and we wanted to expand," says Jaganath, informing that within just the second year of operations, the young company had crossed Rs 1 crore in turnover.

The company, which retails ice creams under the popular Dairy Day brand, operated at that premises until 2006. Those days, a few brands such as Kwality Walls, Vadilal, Amul, Arun, and Joy held sway, but opportunities were aplenty. Having worked across the Southern states as part of his previous job, helped Jaganath expand his young companys network. The same year, Dairy Classic Ice Creams moved to its own place.

Market melt

Gradually, the company grew from a tiny entrepreneurial venture, to a sizeable ice cream enterprise, all along trying to break the puzzles that the Indian market threw at it.

While India has seen its fair share of ice cream demand, the market is still nascent at Rs 10,000 crore, which includes both organised and unorganised players at a 35:65 ratio.

India has amongst the lowest annual per capita consumption of ice creams globally at 300 ml. This compares to a measly amount, when compared with the US at 22 litres, or even China at 8 litres.

Balaraju lists certain critical factors. "Power shortage and outage is beyond our control. No electricity impacts temperature maintenance of ice cream freezers. Also, lack of efficient cold chain systems in Tier-II cities, and even refrigerated trucks for transportation have posed a challenge," he says.

However, over the past five years, Indias ice cream sales volume has increased at a CAGR of nearly 13%, the fastest in the world, and is expected to nearly double from 334.4 million litres in 2016, to 657.2 million litres by 2021. And the market is likely to be worth over $1.6 billion by then, according to market research firm Mintels Ice Cream Global Annual Review 2017.

Meanwhile, in a bid to safely foray in this market, Dairy Classic Ice Creams has successfully been able to use different conventional methods such as insulated boxes with chill pads and eutectic freezers, which initially enabled it to make a mark in Tier-II cities, before actually tapping Bengaluru.

Another challenge that the Indian market is prone to, is battling low off-season sales, due to misconceptions surrounding consumption of ice creams during cold and wet seasons.

"During winters, ice cream, with its rich source of protein and fats drawn from milk, offers energy and nourishment that could keep one warm," informs Balaraju, adding that the company has also worked towards sensitising dealer-partners about de-icing techniques to maintain the freshness and quality of their products.

With urbanisation, better per-capita income, and cold chain infrastructure development, the Indian market is improving. Even eating habits around ice creams are on the up.

Breaking the industry ice

The industry across the globe has three generic ice cream flavours, namely vanilla, chocolate and strawberry, with vanilla contributing for maximum consumption; then follow the other flavours. All these are sold as variants â€" cups, sticks, and take-home packs, among others.

Dairy Classic Ice Creams began selling Dairy Day with 3-4 variants in each category â€" cups, tubs, take-home packs, sticks, cones, and so on.

"Those days, we had 20 SKUs, while today we have 150 SKUs, with around 30 flavours. Within that we create different shapes, formats, packs, and combinations. Around 10-12 new SKUs may be rolled out every year," says Jaganath.

But whats different, one might ask. "While differentiators in terms of flavours may not be much, the strength of ingredients, taste, quality, packaging, and pricing, have been the turning point of our business. Our proposition is value for money and mass (in the Rs 5-Rs 50 range)," he says.

Unique flavours such as black currant, and offering traditionally prepared Matka Kulfi, packed with a stainless steel spoon, 2-in-1 slices, and a No Sugar Added range, have been runaway successes.

So while Amul and Kwality Walls reign supreme as national players, Dairy Day has been able to hold some fort in its regional playground of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, achieving Rs 30 crore in its tenth year of operation, in a largely capital-intensive industry.

From the beginning, the company has operated via retail sales, selling through general trade, modern trade, and a little bit through ecommerce. Today, it partners with 25,000 retailers.

"Designing our expansion plan according to our borrowing power is what dictated growth along our ten-year journey," Jaganath says.

In 2013, the company set up a new plant of around 65,000 sq feet, over 1 lakh sq feet of land, at Harohalli, Kanakpura, investing
Rs 30 crore through a mix of finance and own funds, which helped it to achieve Rs 100 crore turnover in 2015-16. "We were on fast-track mode. We had production capacity and selling ability. With more scope, we had to add more infrastructure in order to cater to our expansion plans, and also to grow inside of the factory and outside â€" for instance, we provide retailers with reefer freezers," he says.

In October 2016, the company went for private equity funding, with Motilal Oswal Private Equity investing around Rs 110 crore, and holding a minority stake. With that investment, Dairy Classic Ice Creams added another 30,000 sq feet facility at Harohalli in April 2017, taking its total capacity to 1,25,000 litres a day.

Cream of the industry

Keeping quality high with value, and the drive to grow has kept Dairy Classic Ice Creams refreshed on its march. Even in terms of sourcing, it has taken a practical approach, assured of quality. For instance, it sources milk from the Karnataka Milk Federation (KMF) and a private company in Bengaluru. In a few months, it plans to set up two centres for milk collection directly from farmers. Also, it uses purees and pulps of seasoned fruits, directly sourced from known companies in those businesses.

"We take care of the total knowledge of ice cream manufacturing â€" from formulation of a products specifications and requirement of the best machinery, to buying the latest technologies and updating each days requirement â€" on our own," Balaraju says.

Today, the companys turnover stands at Rs 150 crore, growing at 40% CAGR. It is aiming at Rs 500 crore in turnover by 2021. Meanwhile, it also plans to tap all the South Indian states, with some share of Maharasthra too, with a focus on over 50,000 outlets. Dairy Classic Ice Creams is enjoying its success slowly, yet enthusiastically, just like a child would his or her ice cream.

Robust GST revenues needed for bolder tax reforms

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When the government rolled out the GST in the middle of last year, it was pretty confident of the new indirect tax regime bringing in desired revenues to help reduce direct taxes significantly for the salaried class.

In the first month of GST implementation, it did happen. The GST collection was a whopping Rs 92,283 crore in July, and a jubilant Finance Minister Arun Jaitley told the press that the red line had been crossed in the first month itself. The red line was Rs 91,000 crore. He said the government was comfortable going forward, as it expected revenues to keep climbing with the increase in number of GST filers. It was around that time when Jaitley was heard lauding GST compliance, and talking of bigger reforms such as lowering GST slabs from the present four to just one or two. He was also heard talking of bringing in more reforms on direct taxes, and eventually giving relief to the salaried class once the government systematically shored up revenues.

Six months down the line, the GST revenues have disappointed. There has been a continuous fall month by month and the collections have been down to the Rs 80,000-mark in November, the data for which is available as of now. Worst, officials have confided that the December GST collections are going to be lower than November. The "comfort" about which Jaitley appeared sure about, appears to be vanishing. And, after the last weeks GST Council meeting, the narrative has changed from trust on traders with regard to filing returns, to that of cracking the whip on GST evaders. Emerging out of the meeting on Thursday last, Jaitley said, "So far, we were relying on the unilateral declaration of traders, but we realise it is necessary to build in anti-evasion measures."

He was visibly pained to reveal that while the number of traders registered under the compliance scheme of paying GST had crossed 17 lakh, the revenue generated through that window was only Rs 307 crore in the July-September period.

Now, the GST Council is thinking of bringing back some of the relaxed norms such as reverse charge mechanism and invoice matching ahead of the deadline to identify evasion and plug leakages. It has already set the deadline of February 1 for making eWay bill compulsory for movement of goods valued more than Rs 50,000 within and outside a state.

The eWay bill is an online registration of goods to be transported, the details of which are uploaded by the supplier and transporter. The tax authorities in turn match the eWay bill with the actual consignment to check for tax evasion. While many believe that frequent lowering of GST rates on various goods and services is responsible for constant lowered collection of GST levies, the government suspects payment for many transactions are being done in cash to avoid GST. They also suspect under-invoicing of goods to be the major cause of depletion in revenues.

A third factor making a dent into GST revenues is believed to be the multiple filing of returns under the regime. To address it, the Council has taken help from Infosys Chairman Nandan Nilekani. He is expected to remodel the return-filing process and eventually bring it down to a one-stage filing in place of the current three stages. The move will also improve timely revenue generation so that month-on-month figures too look healthy. But till now, the cumulative impact of all that is the Centre staring at indirect tax receipts falling short of the Budget target. At the same time, the states are demanding more compensation for their revenue losses. To make some adjustments, the GST Council has authorised allocation of the integrated GST credits of Rs 35,000 crore between the Centre and the states, albeit on a provisional basis. The GST Council is of firm faith that the anti-evasion measures will boost GST revenues to the tune of 25%. Robust revenues are needed for the government to take up bolder reforms under the GST regime. Also, systematic flow of revenues from the indirect taxes and non-tax revenues are required to bring in reforms on the direct taxes side.

The Union Budget is round the corner. Both Prime Minister Narendra Modi and Jaitley have hinted at an overhaul of age-old direct tax laws which moves towards lowering the tax burden on payers. No one knows what is in the finance ministers briefcase which he carries to Parliament on Budget day. Falling revenues may hold him back from giving a big income tax rebate, but 2019 Parliamentary polls looming large can fork that out too.

Coming of age of NBFCs in Indian fin landscape

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When you want finance against used commercial vehicles you think of Shriram Transport Finance. If you want a loan against Gold, you either think of Manappuram Finance or Muthoot Finance. Srei Infrastructure or IDFC have created a niche for themselves in infrastructure financing, while Bajaj Finance has reinvented lending against consumer durables. Welcome to the world of NBFCs (Non-Banking Finance Corporations)!

NBFCs have been competing with and complementing banks in the growth of the economy over the past few decades. No wonder that they have been regarded as Shadow Banks by the financial stability board (FSB).

Though regulated by the RBI, they do not enjoy the comfort of going to the central bank "as the lender of last resort" in times of crisis unlike banks. They have evolved in terms of their operations, reach and profitability, and have been taking on the mantle of banks in the new ecosystem in the recent past.

Borrowers prefer them over banks due to their faster decision-making ability, prompt provision of services and expertise in niche segments like truck finance, consumer durables or gold loans.

What is an NBFC?

An NBFC is a company registered under the Companies Act, 1956, and undertakes activities similar to that of a bank like accepting deposits and lending loans and advances. However, they cannot do the following:

nNBFCs cannot accept demand deposits
nNBFCs cannot issue cheques drawn on itself
n NBFC deposits are not insured by Deposit Insurance and Credit Guarantee Corporation.

Primarily, NBFCs are mainly categorised into deposit taking NBFCs (NBFC-D) and non-deposit taking NBFCs (NBFC-ND). NBFC-ND have further been divided into two categories based on their asset size - Systemically important non-deposit taking NBFCs (ND-SI) and other non-deposit taking NBFCs (ND-NBFCs).

Protection of depositors interests has been a dominant objective of the Reserve Bank and, therefore, there has been a conscious move to contain deposit mobilisation by NBFCs-D, and hence, RBI has not given any licence to any deposit taking NBFC started after 1997.

What is the Sectoral Distribution of Credit?

The industry continues to get the major share of credit, though NBFCs have been increasing the exposure to the retail sector in the last couple of years. A recent Crisil report says that NBFCs share in total credit in India will go up to 19%, from the existing 16%, by 2019, due to the growth of infrastructure sector and construction of highways. A recent development also is that NBFCs have also been giving working capital loans to small and medium enterprises.


Trend in NPA Ratio vis-a-vis banks

There has been a steady deterioration in asset quality of NBFCs in recent years. Gross non-performing assets (GNPA) ratio for NBFCs increased to 4.5% at end-March 2016.

The increase in NPAs was partly due to the change in NPA recognition norms.

Prior to the issuance of the revised framework in 2016, NBFCs had to mark a loan as bad loan, if the interest was not paid for six months, while for banks it is three months.

Now NBFCs have to mark a loan as bad loan, if the interest has not been paid for 90 days or three months. The new guideline will however kick in only by March 2018.

As per the new guidelines, a loan is bad if it was not paid for five months in FY2016, and further reduced to four months in FY17, and three months in 2018. Notwithstanding, the recent deterioration, the asset quality of NBFCs are better compared with banks.

CRAR of NBFCs

Though the CRAR (Capital to risk weighted assets ratio) has been declining in the last few years, it is still way above the prescribed level of 15%, reflecting the soundness of the NBFC sector as compared with banks.

So are NBFCs here to stay?

NBFCs have come into their own in recent years, and have been slowly emerging out of the shadows of banks which are mired in many issues in the wake of increasing NPAs.

NBFCs have brought efficiency in their operations by embracing technology and have been using algorithms and analytics in assessing the credit needs of the borrowers and providing them online lending platforms. To conclude, there is no denying the fact that NBFCs will play a key role in the growth of our economy in the coming years.

(The writer is a CFA and ex-banker, and is currently with
Manipal Academy of Banking, Bangalore)


Audemars embraces second-hand with time

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Swiss luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet said it would launch a second-hand business this year, becoming the first big brand to announce plans to tap into a fast-growing market for pre-owned premium watches.

The company told Reuters it had carried out a test run in one store in Geneva and would launch the business more widely at its outlets in Switzerland this year. If this proved successful, it said it would roll out the operation in the United States and Japan.

"Second-hand is the next big thing in the watch industry," Chief Executive Francois-Henry Bennahmias said in an interview at the SIHH watch fair in Geneva this week.

Luxury watchmakers have hitherto eschewed the second-hand trade, fearing diluting the exclusivity of their brands and cannibalising their sales. They have instead ceded the ground to third-party dealers.

But some are now looking to change tack, driven by an industry-wide sales slowdown combined with a second-hand market that is expanding rapidly, fuelled by online platforms like Chrono24 and The RealReal.

"At the moment, in watches, we leave it to what I call the dark side to deal with demand for pre-owned pieces," added Bennahmias, whose company is known for its octagonal Royal Oak timepieces that sell for 40,000 Swiss francs ($41,680) on average.

"Anybody but the brands (is selling second hand) - its an aberration commercially speaking," he said, without giving any details about how they would price pre-owned watches.

Several smaller brands, including H.Moser & Cie and MB&F, have signalled interest in the second-hand trade.

"It is important to control the sale of second-hand watches to protect the owners and the value of watches already in the market by keeping the grey market in check," H.Moser & Cie boss Edouard Meylan told Reuters.

MB&F, which plans to launch second-hand sales via its website this year, told Reuters it expected to typically give a 20-30% discount on second-hand watches.

A spokesman said customers buying from established watch brands could feel confident they were getting genuine products in good working order and with a valid warranty.

Bigger brands Rolex, Patek Philippe, Swatch Group, Richemont and Breitling all declined to comment, when asked whether they planned to enter the second-hand market, while LVMHs watch division was not immediately available.

Watches by the bucket

Audemars Piguet said it would launch its second-hand business in several, but not all, of its 26 Swiss outlets, but declined to specify how many stores or give a more precise date.

It will initially allow customers to trade in old Audemars Piguet watches as part-exchange for new ones, and then sell on the second-hand watches.

It has not yet decided whether to buy second-hand watches for cash, added the firm, saying its sales had come close to the 1 billion Swiss franc mark last year.

Experts say the second-hand luxury watches business, mostly done via online platforms or specialised retailers, is growing rapidly as a new generation of customers that values variety more than permanent ownership enters the luxury world.

In an example of the discounts offered online, a diamond-studded Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "with moderate scratches" sells for $9,450 on The RealReal, about a third of the "estimated retail price".

Kepler Cheuvreux analyst Jon Cox said he estimated the size of the second-hand market at around $5 billion a year in revenue, including watches sold at auction, and that it had outperformed the market for new pieces in the last couple of years.

That is still dwarfed by a new luxury watch sector worth 37 billion euros ($45.3 billion), according to consultancy Bain & Cie. However Swiss watch exports fell 3.3 percent in 2015 and 9.9% in 2016 before posting a modest 2.8% rise in the first 11 months of 2017.

The United States, where sales of new watches have been falling for years, is the number one market for pre-owned watches, followed by Britain and Japan, said the US retailer Danny Govberg, who sells new watches for Rolex and other brands, but also an increasing number of second-hand timepieces. His company said its second-hand sales had grown by 37-40% year-on-year over the past five years. In an example of prices, it said it listed a second-hand Audemars Piguet Royal Oak for $24,950 compared with a $32,000 retail price.

Together with a partner in Hong Kong and a Singapore-based investor, Govberg recently launched global e-commerce platform WatchBox for buying and selling pre-owned luxury watches. "People sell us watches by the bucket," he said.

He said many people sold watches to buy a new one so the pre-owned market was actually driving new sales, like in the car market.

"The brands are still trying to figure it out, they dont have the solution yet," he said.

Audemars Piguets Bennahmias said watchmakers had to amend business models to deal with changing consumer habits.

"Were witnessing a social and cultural change that forces us to think about what the business will look like in five or 10 years," he added. "Time flies, we need to watch out."

Carmakers to invest $90 b in electric vehicles

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Ford Motor Cos plan to double its electrified vehicle spending is part of an investment tsunami in batteries and electric cars by global automakers that now totals $90 billion and is still growing, a Reuters analysis shows.

That money is pouring in to a tiny sector that amounts to less than 1 percent of the 90 million vehicles sold each year and where Elon Musks Tesla Inc, with sales of only three models totaling just over 100,000 vehicles in 2017, was a dominant player.

With the worlds top automakers poised to introduce dozens of new battery electric and hybrid gasoline-electric models over the next five years - many of them in China - executives continue to ask: Who will buy all those vehicles?

"Were all in," Ford Motor Executive Chairman Bill Ford Jr said of the companys $11 billion investment, announced on Sunday at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit. "The only question is, will the customers be there with us?"

"Tesla faces real competition," said Mike Jackson, chief executive of AutoNation, the largest U.S. auto retailing chain. By 2030, Jackson said he expects electric vehicles could account for 15-20 percent of New vehicle sales in the United States.

Investments in electrified vehicles announced to date include at least $19 billion by automakers in the United States, $21 billion in China and $52 billion in Germany.

But the US and German auto executives said in interviews on the sidelines of the Detroit auto show that the bulk of those investments are earmarked for China, where the government has enacted escalating electric-vehicle quotas starting in 2019.

Mainstream automakers also are reacting in part to pressure from regulators in Europe and California to slash carbon emissions from fossil fuels. They are under pressure as well from Teslas success in creating electric sedans and SUVs that inspire would-be owners to flood the company with orders.

While Tesla is the most prominent electric car maker, "soon it will be everybody and his brother," Daimler AG Chief Executive Dieter Zetsche told reporters at the Detroit show.

Daimler has said it will spend at least $11.7 billion to introduce 10 pure electric and 40 hybrid models, and that it intends to electrify its full range of vehicles, from minicompact commuters to heavy-duty trucks.

"We will see whether demand will drive our (electric vehicle) sales or whether we will all be trying to catch the last customer out there," Zetsche said. "Ultimately, the customer will decide."

For now, Nissan Motor Cos seven-year-old Leaf remains the worlds top-selling electric vehicle and the companys sole battery-only car - an offering soon to be swamped by new rivals bringing tougher competition that could add pressure to pricing.

"Everybody will find out that if you push you will have a lot of bad news on residual values," Nissan Chief Performance Officer Jose Munoz told Reuters.

Jim Lentz, chief executive of Toyota Motor Corps North American operations, said it took Toyota 18 years for sales of hybrid vehicles to reach 3% share of the total market. And hybrids are less costly, do not require new charging infrastructure and are not burdened by the range limits of battery electric vehicles, he said.

Will salaried class woes be addressed by FM?

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The Union Budget 2018 is round the corner. As in previous years, expectations continue to be high this time also. Individual taxpayers, specially lower and middle class, have been most affected from the rising inflation. They expect that Budget 2018 will address their woes.

Revisiting the tax slabs and rebate

Last years Budget reduced the tax rate to 5% for the lowest slab (Rs 2.5 lakh to Rs 5 lakh). It did not revisit the tax slabs but reduced the threshold for claiming the rebate under section 87A, from Rs 5 lakh to Rs 3.5 lakh, available to a resident individual.

It also reduced the maximum rebate which can be claimed under that section from Rs 5,000 to Rs 2,500. The result was that resident individuals with taxable income up to Rs 3 lakh continued with no tax liability. However, those with taxable income in the range of Rs 3.5 lakh to Rs 5 lakh, did not get the entire benefit of reduction in tax rates.

Hence, Budget 2018 should reinstate the threshold for claiming the rebate to Rs 5 lakh so that benefit of reduced rate flows to individuals whose taxable income is in the range of Rs 3.5 lakh to Rs 5 lakh. This will help the government meet the expectations of the low salary earner group.

Re-introduction of standard deduction for salaried individuals

The benefit of standard deduction was available to salaried individuals till financial year 2004-05. An individual engaged in business/ profession is able to claim deduction for expenses incurred.

On the other hand, a salaried individual is not entitled to claim deduction for expenses incurred while performing his duty which is not on par with individuals engaged in business/ professions.

Standard deduction is available to salaried employees in many countries. Recently, the US also increased the standard deduction for its resident individuals.

Considering, rising inflation and global practices, the government is expected to reinstate the standard deduction which would meet a long-standing demand of salaried individuals.

House property loss

Salaried individuals can adjust the salary income against any loss from house property. Finance Act 2017 restricted the loss from house property which could be set-off against other income, to Rs 2 lakh. Prior to that, the threshold of Rs 2 lakh was for self- occupied properties only, and individuals were able to adjust loss from rented property without any limit.

A lower limit of Rs 2 lakh restricts salaried individuals from buying a house as the EMI burden would be heavy without sufficient tax benefit. Given the increasing cost of property and the rate at which loans are availed, the current limit of deduction for Rs 2 lakh is insufficient and could be increased to Rs 3 lakh per year to allow taxpayers to set-off a larger part of the house property loss against other income.

Exemption limit for various allowances and reimbursements

The exemption limits for conveyance/ education allowance/ medical reimbursements were fixed long back and have not changed despite continuous inflationary conditions. Hence, these limits need to be considerably raised upwards.

Exemption for leave travel concession is available for two calendar years in a block of four calendar years. The government should replace the concept of calendar year with financial year (April â€" March) in line with other provisions of the Income Tax Law. Further exemption should be made available in respect of at least one journey in each financial year.

Other expectations

Section 80C provides a deduction of Rs 1.5 lakh for specified investments and deductions. The overall limit Section 80C needs a relook; it is time that the same is increased from Rs 1.5 lakh to Rs 2 lakh.

Section 80D provides deduction of Rs 25,000 (non-senior citizens) for individuals towards health insurance premium and payment on comprehensive medical check-up. However, with rising medical costs, a higher deduction limit is required to ensure adequate coverage for individual taxpayers.

The government will be presenting its last comprehensive Budget and taxpayers would continue to expect relief from the Budget. However, one has to wait and see how the Finance Minister meets the expectation of salaried taxpayers while reining in the fiscal constraints of the economy.

(Tapati Ghose is Partner, Deloitte India, and Vijay Bharech is manager with Deloitte Haskins and Sells LLP)

Time for Apple to build a less addictive iPhone

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Its not Apples fault that you feel enslaved by your phone. But the company that gave the world the modern smartphone has a perfect opportunity this year to create a brave and groundbreaking new take on that device: a phone that encourages you to use it more thoughtfully, more deliberately - and a lot less.

Tech "addiction" is a topic of rising national concern. I put the A-word in quotes because the precise pull that our phones exert over us isnt the same as that of drugs or alcohol. The issue isnt really new, either; researchers who study how we use digital technology have for years been warning of its potential negative effects on our cognition, psyche and well-being.

What is new is who has joined the ranks of the worried. Recently, a parade of tech luminaries, including several former Facebook employees, have argued that were no match for the sophisticated machinery of engagement and persuasion being built into smartphone apps. Their fears are manifold: Theyre worried about distraction, productivity, how social networks alter our emotional lives and relationships, and what theyre doing to children.

Its hard to know what to make of these confessions of regret. Come on, guys - you gave us these wondrous machines, you made billions of dollars from their ubiquity, and now you tell us theyre bad?

Also, what do we do about it?

Like air pollution or intrusive online advertising, tech addiction is a collective-action problem caused by misaligned incentives. Companies that make money from your attention - that is, ad-supported apps like Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat and YouTube - now employ armies of people who work with supercomputers to hook you ever more deeply into their services. Sure, we should call on them to act more ethically - and Facebook, for its part, has said its willing to lose money to improve its users well-being - but Im skeptical theyll be able to suppress their economic interests.

Government regulation and more restraint from users might also help, but the former is unlikely and the latter is insufficient. So whos left?

The same company that always seems to turn up when its time to cross into a new era of technology: Apple.

I got to thinking about Apples responsibility last week when two large investors wrote an open letter asking the company to do more about its products effects on children. I was initially inclined to dismiss the letter as a publicity stunt; if youre worried about children and tech, why not go after Facebook?

But when I called several experts, I found they agreed with the investors. Sure, they said, Apple isnt responsible for the excesses of the digital ad business, but it does have a moral responsibility to - and a business interest in - the well-being of its customers.

And theres another, more important reason for Apple to take on tech addiction: because it would probably do an elegant job of addressing the problem.

"I do think this is their time to step up," said Tristan Harris, a former design ethicist at Google who now runs Time Well Spent, an organization working to improve technologys impact on society.

"In fact," Harris added, "they may be our only hope."

For one thing, Apples business model does not depend on tech addiction. The company makes most of its money by selling premium devices at high profit margins. Yes, it needs to make sure you find your phone useful enough to buy the next one, but after you purchase your phone and sign up for some of its premium services, Apple doesnt really need you to overdo it. Indeed, because it cant make infinite battery life, Apple would probably be OK if you cooled it with your phone a little.

Yet even though Apple is not part of the ad business, it exerts lots of control over it. Every tech company needs a presence on the iPhone or iPad; this means that Apple can set the rules for everyone. With a single update to its operating system and its app store, Apple could curb some of the worst excesses in how apps monitor and notify you to keep you hooked (as it has done, for instance, by allowing ad blockers in its mobile devices). And because other smartphone makers tend to copy Apples best inventions, whatever it did to curb our dependence on our phones would be widely emulated.

Harris suggested several ideas for Apple to make a less-addictive smartphone. For starters, Apple could give people a lot more feedback about how theyre using their devices. Imagine if, once a week, your phone gave you a report on how you spent your time, similar to how your activity tracker tells you how sedentary you were last week. It could also needle you: "Farhad, you spent half your week scrolling through Twitter. Do you really feel proud of that?" It could offer to help: "If I notice you spending too much time on Snapchat next week, would you like me to remind you?"

Another idea is to let you impose more fine-grained controls over notifications. Today, when you let an app send you mobile alerts, its usually an all-or-nothing proposition - you say yes to letting it buzz you, and suddenly its buzzing you all the time.

Harris suggested that Apple could require apps to assign a kind of priority level to their notifications. "Lets say you had three notification levels - heavy users, regular users and lite, or Zen," Harris said.

Apple could set rules for what kind of notifications were allowed in each bucket - for instance, the medium bucket might allow notifications generated by other people (like a direct message in Instagram) but not those from the app itself (Instagram just sending you an alert to remind you that your high school friends moms brother posted a new picture recently).

"And then Apple could say, by default, everyone is in the middle level - and instantly it could save a ton of users a ton of energy in dealing with this," Harris said.

Theres a danger that some of these anti-addiction efforts could get too intrusive. But thats also why Apple would shine here; building a less-addictive phone is chiefly a problem of interface design, which is basically Apples entire corporate raison dêtre.

Another thing that Apple is good at is marketing, and I suspect it could make a lot of gauzy ads showing people getting more out of iPhones and iPads by unplugging from them for a little while. Note that it already sells a device, the Apple Watch, whose marketing extols the magic of leaving your phone behind.

Done right, a full-fledged campaign pushing the benefits of a more deliberative approach to tech wouldnt come off as self-interest, but in keeping with Apples best vision of itself - as a company that looks out for the interests of humanity in an otherwise cold and sometimes inhumane industry.

"How we live with technology is the cultural issue of the next half-century," said James Steyer, the founder and chief executive of Common Sense Media, a nonprofit group that studies how children are affected by media.

He suggested that the feeling was ripe for Apple to tap into. "Its something that everyone cares about - whether youre a Republican or a Democrat, liberal or conservative, whether you live in San Francisco or Biloxi, Mississippi, you know that you and your kids are part of the arms race for attention," he said.

Apple released a statement last week saying it cared deeply "about how our products are used and the impact they have on users and the people around them," adding that it had a few features on addiction in the works.

Apple hardly ever talks about future products, so it declined to elaborate on any of its ideas when I called. Lets hope its working on something grand.

Kindle is convenient, but print is immersive

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How do New York Times journalists use technology in their jobs and in their personal lives? Alexandra Alter, who covers the books industry for The Times, discussed the tech shes using.

Q: Given that you write about the books industry, how do you prefer to read books? On a Kindle or iPad or some other device, or printed books?

I came a little late to e-books, but I became a convert in 2010 when my older daughter was born. I needed a way to read books with one hand (and in a dark room), so I got a Kindle. The Kindle and ice cream sandwiches - also easily managed with one hand - are what got me through the brutal early weeks with a newborn, when you basically cant put them down. Now Im on my fifth Kindle.

I still love print books and find it to be a much more relaxing and immersive experience, but when Im reading books for work - honestly, the bulk of my reading - the Kindle is incredibly convenient. I have all my books on a single device that I always have with me. I read advance copies of books that way: Publishers send me digital copies through NetGalley or Edelweiss, sites where book industry professionals and critics can get digital copies of books before theyre published.

I like that e-books are searchable, which is helpful for fact-checking, and the device stores all my notes and highlights, so I can quickly look stuff up when Im writing. And I can read with one hand on a crowded train. One of my mild phobias is being trapped somewhere, on a plane or a stalled train or in a line, with nothing to read, and I also have the Kindle reader app on my iPhone, so I always have my entire library with me.

Q: How is technology affecting the publishing industry?

About a decade ago, when Amazon introduced its first e-reader, publishers panicked that digital books would take over the industry, the way digital transformed the music industry. And for a while, that fear seemed totally justified. At one point, the growth trajectory for e-books was more than 1,200 percent. Bookstores suffered, and print sales lagged. E-books also made self-publishing easier, which threatened traditional publishers.

But in just the last couple of years, there has been a surprising reversal. Print is holding steady - even increasing - and e-book sales have slipped.

One possible reason is that e-book prices have gone up, so in some cases theyre more expensive than a paperback edition. Another possibility is digital fatigue. People spend so much time in front of screens that when they read they want to be offline. Another theory is that some e-book readers have switched to audiobooks, which are easy to play on your smartphone while youre multitasking. And audiobooks have become the fastest-growing format in the industry.

Q: What will be the fate of physical bookstores? And what do you think about Amazons bookstores?

Indie bookstores have made a surprising comeback in recent years (a trend that might be connected to the resurgence of print books). A lot of independent stores have been so successful that theyve expanded into mini-chains.

The future of Barnes & Noble looks uncertain, and the company has suffered setbacks after a few disastrous strategies. It made a huge and, in retrospect, unwise investment in digital hardware and its Nook device, and then tried to become more of a general-interest gift and toy and books store, which probably alienated some of its core customers. Lately, it has tried smaller concept stores, with cafes with food and wine and beer. There was some snickering online after its new chief executive announced that its latest strategy was to focus on selling … books. Snickering aside, I think its the smartest thing the company can do. In many parts of the country, Barnes & Noble is the only place people can buy books, and its still a beloved brand.

Amazons entry into the physical retail space has been fascinating. Im not sure how successful the experiment has been. When I visited the Amazon bookstore at New Yorks Columbus Circle, it definitely felt like a device store that also sold books. The store even looks like a 3-D version of the website, with book covers facing out and curated sections that reflect whats popular with Amazons customers. But theyre expanding rapidly across the country, so something must be working.

Ill be curious to see how Indigo Books, the Canadian chain, will do here next year when it expands into the United States. Maybe it will shake up the model.

Q: Outside your job, what tech product are you currently obsessed with?

I am, my family would confirm, not great with gadgets. It would be fair to say that Im actively bad with them. Im wary of some of the new home assistants like Amazons Echo and Google Home, not necessarily because Im paranoid about my conversations being recorded - Amazon and Google already know everything about me - but because my kids would likely be yelling at the devices all the time, and the Taylor Swift and Ariana Grande songs would play in an endless loop.

I have become a podcast junkie. I found The Daily to be habit forming. My other go-tos are Planet Money (disclosure: my husband is a reporter there), The New York Times Book Review podcast (where I sometimes appear), Longform, the New Yorker Radio Hour and some of the shows from Gimlet Media, like StartUp and Reply All. (Heavyweight, Jonathan Goldsteins show, is hilarious and engrossing.)

Q: What tech is popular with your family?

The one app thats popular with the whole family is this Japanese game Neko Atsume: Kitty Collector. You buy virtual presents for these cartoon cats, which come and go as they please, and the cats leave you fish. You cant really control the cats or win in any way. Just like with real cats, I suppose.

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