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In touch with the rich heritage

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Preetam Jukalker started his career by designing sought-after bridal and red carpet outfits with glamorous embellishments. But a documentary film he watched — 'The True Cost' — altered his design philosophy. He wanted to shift from the glamorous world of fashion to a sustainable one.

The movie which revolves around the bad impact of fast fashion enlightened him about the sufferings of traditional artisans. Thus began his tryst with Indian textiles.

"This is my small initiative to revive the dying textile industry in India," he says.

With the philosophy of slow and sustainable fashion, Preetam works closely with the weavers of Andhra Pradesh and crafts earthy clothes, which he terms to be eternal.

"Currently I am working with 'pochampalli' weaves and 'ikat' yarns. From the fabrics to the buttons I use, everything is 100 percent organic and sustainable," he explains.

An admirer of Indo-Western creations, he crafts contemporary designs. Crop tops, palazzos, skirts, tunic tops... he gives a quirky touch to each of them while crafting.

"Indian textiles is not boring. One can work around rich colours and they can be worn by anyone at anytime. I modernise the traditional textiles with my contemporary style. Hence you can see that the saris I design have unconventional pockets that make the simple wear elegant and quirky," he explains.

His Spring-Summer collection has long dresses, shirts, gowns, which inculcate a layered styling — all designed with handcrafted and hand dyed fabrics. He says he is doing his bit to revive the dying art and the artisans, and explains, "While selling my designs,I make sure to let my customer know the effort that has gone behind these fabrics. My designs cater to all sections of the society as they are affordable clothes with a touch of luxury. They combine detailed colours."

While it is the Indian textiles that inspire him to create innovative designs, his mother too played a role in grooving his designing career.

"As a kid I always read the fashion magazines and watched the celebrities talk about fashion all the time. I used to have a collage made of all the fashionable stuff I saw. My mother stitched clothes and I saw her sit on the sewing machine, making shirts for me. While she was away, I took over the machine stitching some baby clothes," he recalls.
After his Pre-University, he joined the fashion and textile course for degree. He has not looked back since.

While his personal style is organic — white shirt, trousers and jacket — he says, "I yearn to take Indian textiles into mainstream fashion and help it get the limelight it deserves."

Boys, take it to the streets

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Redefining streetwear is 'Breakbounce Streetwear', a City-based brand that aims to break boundaries in the clothing segment. Inspired by Dutch craftsmanship and European street fashion nuances, the brand is just right for any casual occasion. The latest collection aims to provide plenty of choices to the fashion-conscious men of today.

Stylist speaks

Mithilesh Nyathappa says, "'Breakbounce Streetwear' is definitely a go-to brand for the casual-relaxed-carefree you. The colours vary from muted and deep shades of blues, greens and peaches to light whites with small prints. The flannel printed full-length shirts act as good layering options on sleeveless vests. As add-ons, there is a range of belts and shoes that one can choose from."

Men's printed shirt: Rs. 1,899
Vest: Rs. 699
Navy melange knitted trousers: Rs. 1,599
White Etosha shoes: Rs. 1,899

Dark Indigo polo: Rs. 1,399
Ash blue colour shorts: Rs. 1,899

Baby pink T-shirt: Rs. 999
Navy mens' chino trousers: Rs. 2,599

Crew neck T-shirt: Rs. 799
Indigo jeans: Rs. 2,499
Khaki shoes: Rs. 1,899

Green crew neck T-shirt: Rs. 999
Mens' trousers indigo: Rs. 1,649


'Subtle humour works better these days'

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Not everyone is able to live his or her dream. Actor Komal, who always wanted to be an actor and could never imagine himself in any other profession, considers himself among those few lucky ones who have been able to.

Looking back at his rather long career in the Kannada film industry, Komal says with a sense of pride that he is glad that he has been able to essay so many different kinds of roles with ease.

His last release, 'Kathe Chithrakathe Nirdeshana Puttana', has been running to packed houses both in single screen theatres and multiplexes. Komal, who plays the role of a film director in the movie, says, "I am overwhelmed by the response and appreciation that I have received from people for this project. There's comedy, suspense and romance in equal measures. I have been trying out different characters and a lot of people say that they like the characters that I have been choosing all along."

The actor is currently busy with two things — the construction of his house that he has personally designed and planned after a lot of thought and the release of his next film 'Deal Raja.' About his role in 'Deal Raja', he says, "I play a conman who finds new ways to con people and make money. However devious the route, the man is willing to take the risk and go the extra mile to make money," he explains.

Komal says that he wants to break-free from the tag of a comedian and attempt all kinds of roles. "I don't want to get stuck doing comedy or predictable roles. I have played the lead in a lot of projects and now I have consciously changed my preferences and started looking out for projects that not only offer a unique character but also provide enough scope to explore the actor in me," he adds. ​

He feels even comedy has changed. "I don't think movie goers like straight and in-your-face kind of humour anymore. Subtle humour works better these days," he adds.

Komal says that he doesn't want to sign any new projects until he finishes with the construction of his house. "There are a few features in the house that need my personal supervision like the green house in the terrace garden. I have always grown a few vegetables in whatever little space is available and now the new house has been designed to have more space to grow these. I have always wanted to eat what I grow and I now have the opportunity to do it my way," he shares.

Down to earth

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Her interest in gardening, which she inherited from her father, led her to do something different — both as a passion and as a way of caring for the earth. When she found that the market is dominated by plastic and cement pots, neither of which are good for plants, she started making terracotta planters about seven years back.

'Maati Terracotta' is the brainchild of Shashi Bagchi, who started creating terracotta products before she decided to specialise on terracotta gardening pots.

"I was working with an advertising agency but left the job because boredom seeped in. I was always into gardening and over the years, I noticed that the pots available in the market are only the plastic and cement ones, both of which are not good for plants. That's when the idea of making terracotta pots came to my mind. It was a part of my course back in college, but I also took a short-term course on terracotta before I took the leap," says Shashi.

However, due to the non-availability of a physical unit in her initial days, she started off by going to Pottery Town, which didn't work out for her as it was a difficult task to carry the completed works. Today, she has a studio where the entire process takes place.

She says, "I have my own studio where the complete process, right from designing and manufacturing to retailing and supplying takes place. I work with landscapers, corporates, individuals and architects. The entire process of creating terracotta pots involves a lot of physical labour and I solely work towards the upliftment of potters. Currently, we are concentrating on supplying our products to Coimbatore, Hyderabad and Chennai."

Her forte lies in making large planters (standing as tall as four feet), animal-shaped planters, garden accessories like garden sculptures, bird feeders and bird baths, lamp shades, name plates and cooking utensils. Some of her popular items, she claims, are the 'walking legs' pot, wall murals, the kettle-shaped wall clock and the frog garden sculpture. Shashi's main motive, she says, is to make people aware of the eco-friendly nature of these products.

While on one hand, terracotta products are gaining popularity among people these days, on the other hand, the younger generation of potters has stopped working in this business, resulting in a decline of the pottery industry.

She reasons, "The younger generation of potters is rarely seen carrying this forward. The
reason being that they are getting educated, which is a good thing, but these youngsters also don't want to get their hands and clothes dirty. Though they will sit and admire the works, when it comes to doing it themselves, they will move away. I believe that the support they deserve and the physical space terracotta products require (during the entire process) is limited."

But she says that ordinary pots don't have any aesthetic value attached to them. When it comes to terracotta pots, the scenario is different — there is demand because there are different designs that one can find, the quality is better and a terracotta planter can stay up to 12 to 15 years, carrying an aesthetic importance with it. However, the easy availability of cement and plastic pots is what hampers this business.

As for the support and feedback she gets, she says, "I am blessed to have the support of my family. They are always curious to see what I am creating next. That inspires me to constantly keep creating unique products. Many people have come back to me saying that they like the finish I give to each item. Moreover, they are also fond of the innovative designs and the expressions I give to each creation. If one notices, they can clearly see that all my animal planters have a happy face. That attracts the attention of many customers."

A tribute to tradition

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As a kid, SanjayGarg shared a special bond with handmade things. A native of Rajasthan, he grew up among many traditional crafters, to whom he pays tribute through his profession.

A fashion designer credited with the revival of 'chanderi' textiles, Sanjay's philosophy revolves around designing clothes, which he says, "Play a role in transforming the society. They are garments that are a reflection of my attempt to go back to the inherent beauty of hand woven yarns."

Taking inspiration from the rich history and culture of India, he designs occasional wear garments and saris that are timeless. His label, 'SanjayGarg Signature Line' has a collection of 'lehengas', 'kurtas', 'pajamas' and pants, all woven using traditional clothing techniques.

His new collection, 'Three Shuttles Collection of RawMangoSarees', consists of silk saris that draw inspiration from the architecture of South India's temples.

The collection has an overflow of happy pink, which he explains, "The weaves are usually gray and dull.But this collection has a lot of pink, which is eye candy and suits all skin types. It gives a grand look to the elegant saris."

The collection inculcates the technique of three shuttle weaving, which is characterised by solid borders and tie-dyed 'pallus'.

Working closely with the handloom sector for over five years now, he goes back in time and recalls, "My affair with traditional crafts has been a long one and as a kid,I grew up with them. But I studied in a village in Rajasthan and I was unaware of the world outside. I did not know about the courses in fashion. One of my cousins enrolled in a craft college and this, in turn, motivated me to move out of Rajasthan. I then joined NIFT to do a course on textile clothing."

Today, he works closely with 'chanderi' weaves and those fromVaranasi and West Bengal. One can also find block-printed works fromAkola in his designs.

He talks about reviving the textile industry and says, "Handloom should not be looked at as a subsidy. It is mostly given importance only by the elite of the society, who try and
revive it through some NGO.

This mentality should come to an end and people need to understand that it cannot come
with a cheap tag. There should be more youngsters who openly take to handloom."
As he promotes occasional wear, he says, "I am trying to challenge the notion that a sari is meant only for the academic few and those of a certain age group. I hope to take small steps towards changing the way we look at luxury and occasional wear."

He opines that one should not follow trends, instead they should go with the notion 'Be yourself'. His latest collection will be exhibited at Number 2, Berlie Street, Langford Town on February 27 and 28.

'I have diversified a lot'

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Karan Kundra is said to be in talks to star in the reboot of his hit TV show 'Kitni Mohabbat Hai', but the actor says he will return to the series only if the makers have a message for viewers.

Karan and ex-girlfriend Kritika Kamra became household names after starring in the 2009 romantic drama. There was a second season of the show in 2010. A production house is reportedly reviving the show with the duo.

Reacting to the report, Karan said, "It's a big question. When me and Kritika had done 'Kitni Mohabbat Hai 1', we were youngsters, we had just entered the industry. Now we have a stature, both of us have grown immensely in our fields."

"I have diversified a lot; I have a weight on me. Today, more than my characters, people know me by my name. Keeping this in mind I have to choose my next," he said.

"I would any day do a show where I am contributing something to the society. If my producer can give a good thought to the viewers through 'Kitni Mohabbat Hai 3', I will do it otherwise I won't do it," he added.

Karan and Kritika are one of the most loved on-screen couples on television, but 'Gumrah' star said he wouldn't do a show with the actress, who is his good friend now, just for the heck of it.

"Either it's going to be a big and different concept where me and Kritika are coming together and doing something which is good. We both have a following and people look upto our work, so the concept will matter a lot," he said.

Karan is currently seen on adventure reality show 'MTV Roadies X4'. This is the actor's second year on the show as a judge and gang leader.

The actor said he chose 'Roadies' because he felt it has an "honour" level.

"'Roadies' is something I do for myself. Out of all the reality shows, I chose this one because I found an honour level here. I stand for women empowerment, girl's education, and there is no better show than 'Roadies' to give me that platform," he said.

The actor, who was seen on 'Zara Nachke Dikha', says he does not want to be a part of every reality show just to follow a template.

"I don't want to associate with every reality show. If you look at the career graph of an actor of my level, you will see that their focus is, after doing hit daily soaps, to do a big reality show, then go to films. I don't want to do reality shows just for the sake of it," Karan said.

From script to stage

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A series of colourful performances will play out on stage, this weekend, as part of the Deccan Herald Theatre Festival. Eclectic themes, an array of characters and interesting scripts will take the City by storm.

Members of 'Gnatak' will perform 'The Leader/ Krapp's Last Tape' on February 27, 7.30 pm, at Chowdiah Memorial Hall. Directed by Michael Joseph, both plays are a satirical take on reality and human activities. The Leader' is originally written by Eugene Ionesco and revolves around a mass adulation of political leaders. The play revolves around the group of people who are waiting for their leader and calls out the mundane activities. The announcer leads the celebration and awaits the leader. At the same time, certain routine activities take place in the City. Through the use of character typage, the play highlights absurdist and existential teams of non-personalisation and loss of identity. 'Krapp's Last Tape' is originally written by Samuel Beckett. It is about a man called Krapp, who on his 69th birthday, reviews the year gone by recording his reflections on an old spool tape. Unable to bear the present reality, he submerges himself in the past. Through this play, Beckett paints a portrait of impotent desire by capturing the futility of Krapp. It revolves around the juxtaposition between technology and human emotions and how absurd life actually becomes.

Roy Sinai, Vandana Prabhu and Swetanshu Bora will present director Arundhati Raja's production, 'At Home At The Zoo' on February 27 and 28, 7.30 pm at Jagriti Theatre, Whitefield. Originally written by Edward Albee in 1958, it was first rejected by producers in New York. The play premiered in West Berlin in 1959 and subsequently in an off-Broadway production in 1960. Since then, it has been a perennial favourite with theater companies and has been performed throughout the world. The plot reflects life.

These reflections are distorted and the plot questions the very idea of happiness. The first act, 'Homelife' talks about the character Peter, who has a comfortable job as an editor in a publishing house. He and his wife Ann have a good marriage and the duo are happy until Ann walks away.

In the second act, 'The Zoo', Peter decides to go to the park to regain some comfort and meets Jerry, who is full of stories and looking for someone to talk to.

Tickets are available at the Deccan Herald office, www.bookmyshow.com and at the venues.

A proud moment

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An air of solemnity hung at the St Joseph's Boys' High School (SJBHS) Graduation Day, as the valedictorians of 2015-2016 batch stood poised, ready to march through the gathering.

The dignitaries were escorted to their places by the vice-principal of SJBHS, Miriam Angelo and the administrator of the primary section, Fr Sunil Fernandes, after receiving the customary 'Josephite Guard of Honour'.

The valedictorians then moved down the red carpet, led by the principal of SJBHS, Fr Clifford Sequeira. The evening started with the invocation song, 'Still', sung by the students of Class XI. Fr Clifford Sequeira, then took the stage to welcome all. Rebecca D'Silva, a student of 12th standard, in her message, told the junior students that her journey through the year, was no better than the classic 'Dante's Inferno', but in the end 'Paradise' was achieved.

The valedictorian from 10th standard, referred to Ralph Waldo Emerson, 'Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail'.

The solemn transfer of charge took place to the tune of 'Abide With Me', played by the school band. The school flag was lowered by the students of 12th and 10th standard, and handed over to the students of the ninth and 11th standard, who then hoisted the flag symbolising the change of guard.

Thimappa Hegde, an alumni, and a guest of honour, told the valedictorians what he was told at his graduation, "You are no longer young boys or girls; but young men and women with a purpose," he said.

He urged them to fulfill three things in life; to bring glory to those who matter in their lives; give more than they have received and to repay the debt to the teachers and school.
Rector Rev Fr Anthony Joseph, spoke to the valedictorians asking them to look back with joy and gratitude and to look forward with hope and confidence.

The queen of the 70s

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It is the consistency that determines the quality of a restaurant rather than the innovations or experiments it carries out. In this light, standing tall since 1974 is 'Queen's', an iconic restaurant in Church Street.

One of the first few hotels in the City to cater to the North Indian palate, 'Queen's' was started by Anil Choda and his wife Soneelam, with a small number of dishes but an excessive amount of love.

The four-decade-old story started when Soneelam's home-cooked Punjabi food was a hit among her neighbours. They egged her on to start a restaurant. Soon, she and her husband pursued the idea and started 'Queen's'. "It did very well during that time," she recalls. "We opened with a tandoor and our tandoori 'rotis' and curries were a big hit. Later on, we added the famous 'phulkas'. Our items are not very high on 'masalas' and all the dishes are home-cooked and made separately. We don't have the usual gravies that are used as a base for every other item, rather we let the individual vegetable shine in each dish. By and by, we realised that people liked our simple food. They would come to us saying that they were longing for it."

The soft 'paneer chilly' and the creamy 'malai kulfi' and 'kheer' are some of the popular dishes that people enjoy here. While for lunch, they generally love digging into the North Indian platter comprising 'makki ki roti' and 'sarson ka saag'. Generations come in and enjoy a quick lunch or dinner at 'Queen's' and looking at a number of old customers everyday, Soneelam feels thankful that the fruits of her labour are being savoured by many. Designed by her son, an architect, 'Queen's' has undergone a few renovations since its inception. The artful interiors and intricate carving inside a space which once resembled a tiny cave take one to an exotic Arabian setting.

However, the menu has not undergone any change at all as Soneelam says that everytime they try to add new items, customers come back the next day asking for the 'Queen's' highlights. "But we want to change the menu now as we are so fed up," she laughs. The restaurant got this name as a priest had told them that naming their venture with 'Q' would prove lucky for them and pressed for time, they couldn't think of any other name apart from 'Queen's'. But quite rightly, now many people point to Soneelam as the queen of the restaurant who is running the place well.

An old Bengalurean, she reminisces about the charm of the City fondly. "Church Street was empty when we started. There were so many bungalows on the left side of the road and very few upgraded buildings. It is so overcrowded now that people call us and ask us where to park as there is no parking space near 'Queen's'. We do miss our old city but change is always good. Overall, I'm glad that there are many restaurants coming up and the City is growing."

As the couple are growing older and their children are in different fields, they only hope to pass on what they created to them and take the legacy of a rich well-lived story forward.

A sweet party

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Charles Eames once said, 'Take your pleasures seriously' and the owners at 'Dolci' on Cunningham Road seem to be doing just that. Displaying fresh baked goodies all over the counter that leave everyone drooling, they sure have remained one's favourite for a few years now.

Perfect for a quick date or a hang out with friends, the dessert restaurant has all your favourites to set the mood. Though it's a small place, the ambience is colourful and inviting. It might be a bit difficult to find the place, especially if you are not familiar with the area. But once you find it, you will easily forget the frustration you went through while looking for it.

With their main idea of 'cafe meets bakery', they serve both savoury and sweet favourites with hot and cold beverages that balance your meal.

They offer varieties of bread and crackers like 'sundried focaccia', 'pesto dinner rolls', 'cheese straws', 'bread sticks' and also a basket of bread. For the soft, fluffy croissant lovers, you can choose between the cheese, multi-grain and chocolate ones. To add to more of the savoury aspect, enjoy some of the delicious items like 'spinach corn puff', 'sundried tomato puff', 'corn and spinach tart' and 'mushroom tart'. But they are mostly known for their dessert options. If the items on the menu seem just as regular as the other sweet destinations, you might be right. But the flavours they offer are unique in their own way and give mouth-watering results. The 'Toblerone cake', 'Truffle Praline cake', 'Baileys cake', 'Chocolate meringue cake', 'Red VelvetCake' and 'New York cheesecake' are highly recommended as they will take you on a delightful sugar-rush. For a fruity touch, the strawberry and the pineapple cream gateaux are recommended. If that's not all, they also have a choice of soups, crepes and pizzas to make your visit a rather memorable one.
'Dolci' is located at 18/3, Ali Askar Road, Cunningham Road.

For details, call 40977132.

The South Indian touch

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A morning walk in the boulevard of Rangoli Metro Art Centre is likely to end at Dasaprakash restaurant. Known to serve some of the much relished and popular SouthIndian dishes (with a slightly expensive tag), the restaurant has a cafe-like ambience where one can enjoy an authentic cup of filter coffee with the sought-after crispy 'masala dosa'.

They serve the regular South Indian dishes including 'rava idli', 'onion dosa', 'set dosa' and 'dahi vada', available throughout the day, with a homemade taste. The 'idly' is famous for its fluffiness and the 'dosas' for their crispy texture. While the restaurant can provide a quick bite, it can also be visited for a heavy lunch as they serve everything fromsoup to rice items — all with a South Indian touch of spices and 'masala'.

Matching the Mangalorean style taste, among the rice items tops the special 'bisi bele bath', which is blended with the right amount of spices and crunchy vegetables. The 'pongal' served here too does not fail to please one's taste buds.

If one is visiting the place for a quick bite, then the Mangaluru 'bonda' is a must try. The capsicum rings they serve too are crispy and spicy, fried perfectly to attractive brown. A weekend visit to this place is rewarded with unconventional 'dosas' including the 'banana dosa', 'onion patral dosa' and 'cabbage patral dosa'. Apart from this, they serve a variety of sandwiches that are designed to entice mainly the SouthIndian palate.

On a summer afternoon, one can indulge in the cool beverages available here that include 'rose milk', 'carrot juice', 'apple juice' and other fresh juices. What adds to the whole experience is that apart from providing a picturesque ambience, they also promote the eco-friendly concept by serving dishes in banana leaf plates.

On a 'Thai' note

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Pan-Asian has become one of the most popular cuisines among food lovers. With unique flavours that hit the right notes, many are heading out to indulge in the dishes at different restaurants in the City that serve them. However, 'Shiro' has been one of the few that have stood the test of time with their delicious combinations — stunning decor, soothing ambience and unique cocktails — as people keep coming back for more.

Giving their usual dishes a makeover, they are hosting a 'Thai Food Festival', which focuses on one main ingredient in the different categories of dishes they have. Each ingredient holds about two to three dishes that bring out the flavours as you bite, crunch and dwell on them. They say that the idea is to go back to the basics with an incredibly authentic and delicious Thai menu and celebrate the rich culture of the country. The culinary team has handcrafted menus that surely keep one wanting more.

Though it's a limited menu, it focuses on six key flavours like 'kaffir lime', 'bird's eye chilli', 'Thai basil', 'lemongrass', 'coconut' and 'tamarind'. They also have cocktails that incorporate these ingredients, making it a good combination to wash down your food.

Try the 'tamarind tofu in crispy cups' which acts as an amuse-bouche as you bite into the small crunchy cups. For those who like the strong flavours of fish, the 'Red Snapper with Spicy Sambal' sure gives a kick to the palate. To keep it classic, the 'lemongrass chicken satay' gives the right amount of Thai flavours that will definitely keep you wanting more. Also, try their tempting dishes like the 'steamed Chilean seabass' which easily melts in your mouth and leaves a trail of flavours that you don't want to get rid of. They also have an interesting twist to the regular grilled prawns with the 'prawn on sugarcane skewers' which is both spicy and sweet; it's also fun to chew on the sugarcane once you've indulged in the prawns. One of the interesting drinks which was found to be a rather brilliant combination was the 'Roaring Dragon' that included white rum, mango and chilli flakes. Giving your palate the right run for your money, each dish that's created seems to have been prepared with utmost precision that takes one on a wonderful culinary journey.

However, if you are not someone who wants to experiment with this menu, you can always opt for the regular menu which is also sure to put a smile on your face. Though the prices here are a bit heavy on the pocket, one might easily forget that, with the great service and spread of dishes. 'Shiro' is located at 222, UBCity, Vittal Mallya Road. For reservations, call 41738861.

Strawberry pancakes

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Strawberries are something very exotic and they are slowly becoming popular in India, primarily because of farms coming up in cold regions like hill stations; hence, they are easily available to the common man now. Children, for sure, get attracted to the fruit due to its bright colour, size and looks.

The recipe that I am sharing will help mothers and households utilise strawberries in a different form other than just eating it straight. It is a fun recipe that anyone will definitely love. No expertise is required in making it. As long as one follows the quantities and directions, it's fine. These pancakes are good for breakfast and even as a light snack.

Ingredients


* Refined flour 250 gms
* Strawberry syrup 1 tbsp
* Eggs 2
* Cocoa powder 1/4th cup
* Baking powder 12 gms
* Salt 3 gms
* Sugar 40 gms
* Milk 800 ml
* Butter 10 gms
* Strawberries and whipped cream (for topping) as required

Method

* Mix the flour, baking powder, cocoa powder and salt and keep aside.
* Mix the eggs, sugar, strawberry syrup and milk together till the sugar dissolves.
* Fold in the flour mixture.
* Finally pour in melted butter into the mixture and fold.
* Prepare the pancakes on a non-stick pan.
* Garnish with fresh strawberries and whipped cream and serve.

Recipe courtesy: Chef Thomas Joseph, Executive Chef, Crowne Plaza Bengaluru.

Singing in many rhythms

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Every genre of music, no matter how obscure, has its convoy of musicians who won't hesitate to plaster themselves with labels. There is no dearth of such loyalists, metalhead or otherwise. But there are some who keep aside the labels for their textbooks and let their music run free.

Akhil Kodamanchili, the musician behind 'No Hero', terms his project as 'an alternative, genre-agnostic project that blends a toxic mix of spontaneity and composure, decadent with rich textures and tones over a wide range of stylistic and philosophical dynamics'. Explaining the term 'genre-agnostic', he says, "It's a matter of humility as a musician, that I can't ever practically experience every style of music enough to make a truly educated choice. Maybe someday, something will just feel right, but then again, so many things feel just as right, so it's quite polyamorous — whether it's metal or pop, they're fundamentally the same 12 notes."

This diversity makes it easier for musicians to get accustomed to different styles and cultures, and in turn, to many other aspects of life that accompany each genre. "I found myself growing increasingly comfortable with a variety of styles and cultures as I allowed myself to question music. In a similar sense, this leads to the inevitable concept of faith, fate and other such inner world conundrums," adds Akhil.

The internet revolution plays a huge role in the lives of these 'genre-agnostic' musicians as they have easy access to a variety of genres and music styles now. Confining themselves to one box seems more like a task than anything else. "I went through a wave of nu-metal/metal when I was in my pre-teens but once the internet became more accessible, I just got blown away by the amount of music that's out there, new and old. I gave up on the idea of listening to every album pretty early and started trusting in the recommendations of other more experienced listeners," explains Akhil. This is why he describes his music as "a state of mind". "That's what different kinds of music does, it takes you to different places."

Rishii Rohra, a member of the City-based band 'Saturn Night Sky', says that restrictions imposed on music, by oneself or an outsider, are "undesirable" as the freedom to express in different ways is the best part of being a musician. Like many bands in the City, 'Saturn Night Sky' has members who come from different backgrounds. This amalgamation of one's culture, roots and sounds helps decide the various routes a musician takes. "Our drummer comes from a jazz background while the guitars are inspired by fusions. And we try to incorporate modern rhythms and time signatures, many of which are influenced by progressive bands like 'Tribal Tech', 'Planet X' and 'Panzerballet'," he explains. Traces of R&B, jazz, post-rock and alternative / progressive rock can be found in their music.

The members of 'Aathma', another Bengaluru-based band, reverse the discussion and ask, "Why would you label music?" Sidharth Bharadwaj elaborates, "We come from varied backgrounds. The band is a melting pot of not just cultures, but genres as well! The fact that we're passionate about different kinds of music, is one that exemplifies itself in the jam room, and later, on stage."

With these evolving sounds, there is also a discernable change in the taste of the audience. "We see a lot of people interested in fresh sounds. It's true that some prefer to stick to genres that they are used to. We can't complain though, we've met enough curious minds to keep us going!" says Rishii.

While there are listeners who are conservation about a particular genre, Suraj Mani, of 'Suraj Mani and Tattva Trip', a project that combines poetry with sounds, says that life is all about variety and spontaneity. "An underappreciated fact is that so few people strive to appropriate to the moment because they define themselves too rigidly. Sometimes, allowing the moment to become a spontaneous trigger for a particular song and vice versa is great. When that happens you create magic on stage and magic is never mind-numbingly predictable."

But whatever said and done, it does take a while for listeners to get used to all the different sounds that come out from one musician or band. This is why the artistes tend to help ease the transition, as Suraj explains, "I tend to create context for the songs that we perform by telling the audience what they are about and why I wrote them or what they mean to me. That immediately sets the audience up for a much more intense and personal connect to every song. 'Tattva' in Sanskrit means 'the essence of things', so we are literally tripping on 'tattva' by seeing different situations from different angles. People engage with the situation vicariously, thereby opening up little journeys which grow even after the show is over."

Akhil, on the other hand, says that it isn't very difficult to get people to listen. "Getting people to listen to you is a completely different ball game in today's day and age of marketing. You can record a trash can with auto-tune and market it well enough to make money!"

Cream of the crop

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Is she your quintessential Bollywood actor? Well, no. A winning screen presence and appealing characters over the years have taken her a tad higher than that! No guesses why her loyal fan-base has only grown. Sixteen years of a career had bestowed on Kareena Kapoor-Khan some remarkable characters and some not so.

She has, in her own words, weathered ups and downs. But the actress doesn't like to be pigeon-holed. In R Balki's upcoming film, 'Ki and Ka', her role challenges the conventions of Indian society and the gender norms existing here. While this satire of sorts and many others are up her sleeve, she also turned brand ambassador of Magnum icecream recently.

In a candid chat with Anupama Ramakrishnan, the actor looks at her repertoire, her bond with acting and most importantly, why ice creams make her tick.

Looking back at the way your career has shaped and the variety of films you have done, would you say you are content? Or is the best yet to come?


I am always dissecting the 16 years of my career. It has been amazing to work with some great directors and some not so. There have been ups and downs all along, but overall, I have been able to play a gamut of roles. It has been quite an amazing journey and I
wish to continue to act till the last day of my life.

Your soon-to-be-released film, R Balki's 'Ki and Ka', takes a dig at the set standards in society and looks at progressive relationships. What was it about this concept that made you pick this script?

This is a novel concept — of an ambitious wife and a house-husband. And it's the first time that such a film is made in India. It has been interesting working in it as it's truly different. We have all seen house-husbands in films, but this is a new idea.

Working with director R Balki must have been a one-of-a-kind experience...

Absolutely, I would like to be in all his films. I am a director's actor and It is great to be what he has visualised. His mind comes across in the character. I'm an instinctive actor and work best with amazing directors.

Tell us about 'Udta Punjab', your other project? And have you grown as an actor over the years?

Well, in 'Udta Punjab', I have gritty and dramatic role. I think it would be amazing
to do different kinds of roles on screen. Hopefully, I will
be able to do more in future. Acting, I would say, is in my blood.

On the homefront, how's it being part of the royalty?


I don't look at it that way. It's a lovely family to be in. With my mom-in-law (Sharmila Tagore) especially, I share a great relationship.

You are quite disciplined when it comes to your fitness route. How do you associate yourself with an icecream brand?


I have a sweet tooth. I am more of an icecream girl and it's alright to have one once in a while. I am proud to be associated with Magnum, where you have chocolates, brownies and nuts, all in one.

Talking of which, could you elaborate on your fitness routine?

I do work out a lot and have involved a mix of Pilates and TRX in my fitness routine.

Being the avid traveller you are, where would you like to be on a vacation?

London, Paris and Gstaad. I go to London more often. Whenever I go, there is a sense of belonging.

Her right to pray

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FIGHT FOR JUSTICE Since centuries, women have been agitating for equality in religion. But the question is not merely about the right to pray, it's also about having complete access to all places, says Alka Gadgil.

Shani Shingnapur Temple, Maharashtra. An adolescent girl climbs the open air platform barred for women and offers a quick worship to the Shani idol before dashing off. It all happens in a matter of a few seconds. The consequence of this seemingly harmless act: the temple committee and devotees cry foul and decide to consecrate the platform "desecrated" by the touch of the unknown young woman. December 2015, Haji Ali mosque in Mumbai: The Bharatiya Muslim Mahila Andolan (BMMA) petitions the Bombay High Court seeking a ruling to lift the ban on women entering its inner sanctum.

January 2016, Shani Shingnapur Temple is once again in the news. Although activist Trupti Desai, 31, and her group, Bhumata Brigade, have the constitutionally granted right to enter the temple, the state authorities detain them stating a probable threat to the law and order situation in the area. Later, Trupti reveals how she had thought of hiring a private helicopter to descend on to the raised open platform where the idol is installed, in case entry was denied.

Trupti's James Bond style heroics have made her the poster girl of the "right to pray" agitation that has stirred up a furious debate. She is prime time news. Local and foreign press, television news, social networking and microblogging sites are overflowing with discussions around this issue. Her cellphone buzzes continuously. Calls from different places pour in... Sabarimala Sree Dharma Sastha Temple, Trimbakeshwar Temple.... "It's like wild fire. Women have been rendered untouchables. We are going to reclaim our right to pray at the Shani platform. Action is what's needed. Nothing comes out of dharnas; you have to capture it, seize it," asserts Trupti.

Now consider another scenario — involving Dalit women of Cidiyas village, in Rajasthan's Bhilwara district. They reveal how they were ill-treated when they worked as labourers to clean up Devra Temple along with some upper caste Hindu women. "They employed us to clean the temple. When the work was finished, five rupees was collected from each person, barring the Dalits, on the pretext that the contribution would not be accepted by the deity. It is shocking. The deity can accept our voluntary work but not our offerings?" asks Bhanwar Meghwanshi, a Dalit activist in Cidiyas. (Source: Unheard Voices — Dalit Women/2007).

Nuances of equality

Just like it's 'okay' for Dalit women to step into the sacred Devra Temple to clean it, another 'tradition' that allows these lower caste women's 'entry' into a temple is the regressive, humiliating practice of Devadasi or Jogini. Devadasi literally means God's female servant, who is a young pre-pubescent girl from the Dalit community 'married off' or 'given away' in matrimony to God or the local religious deity of the temple. She serves or rather sexually satisfies the priests and inmates of the temple, and the zamindars (local landlords) and other men of money and power, in their village or town. Eventually, they are recruited into sex trade.

Of course, even though the Devadasi system was officially outlawed in 1982, it continues to persist in some parts of the country. French-American author Catherine Rubin Kermorgant spent four years researching among Devadasi women in a southern state and published her book, Servants of the Goddess: The Modern-Day Devadasis.

Apart from these, there have been plenty of 'not so cool' instances where Dalit students, men and women have been, and, indeed, continue to be, denied the opportunity to exercise their right to pray. Noted Tamil writer Bama's Karukku is the first Dalit autobiography written in Tamil. It focuses on two aspects — caste and religion — that caused great pain in Bama's life. Quite surprisingly, Bama found discriminations in Christianity, too. They labelled her as Dalit-Christian. "I successfully completed the nun training with a strong will. At the end of the training, a nun-sister said 'in certain orders they would not accept Harijan women as prospective nuns and that there was even a separate order for them somewhere.'"

On March 2, 1930, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar had very reluctantly launched the temple entry movement in Kala Ram Mandir at Nasik in Maharashtra. Dr Ambedkar's call was to liberate Hindus from rituals and prejudice. "I didn't launch the temple entry movement because I wanted the depressed classes to become worshippers of idols, which they were
prevented from worshipping or because I believed temple entry would make them equal members in the Hindu society. So far, as this aspect of the case is concerned, I would advise the depressed classes to insist upon a complete overhauling of Hindu society and Hindu theology before they consent to become an integral part of Hindu society," Ambedkar had proclaimed during the Satyagraha.

Many decades later, in 2005, Mahant Sudhir Pujari, grandson of Ramdasbuwa Pujari, who had denied entry to Dr Ambedkar and agitating Dalits in 1932, conceded that "it was a big mistake, which ultimately made Ambedkar to convert." Cut to 2016's Temple Entry Satyagraha. Looking at it through Dr Ambedkar's prism to make sense of what's being played out, Trupti's arguments may sound flat and unnuanced. There seems to be no well thought-out plan. But she has the energy, a good following and strong resolve.

It's also important to note that since centuries women have been agitating for equality in religion. The saint poetesses of the Bhakti movement stood up for women's right to devotion, access to temples and to religious orders. They were harassed and persecuted. Three prominent women who were at the forefront during Dr Ambedkar's Kala Ram Mandir entry agitation were Geetabai Babasaheb Gaikwad and her two sisters Sitabai and Ramabai. They demonstrated, got arrested for breaking police chain and were imprisoned for three-and-a-half months.

What's more, the question is not merely about the right to pray or about gender discrimination, it's also about having complete access to all places. There are scores of temples where members of other religious groups are barred from coming in. Some temples even ask women to wear "decent clothes". Women in western outfits are not welcome.

So, the questions to be asked now are these: will simply focusing on the right to pray make us miss out on far more inequitable features in Indian society — for instance, the ways in which Dalits and women continue to be mistreated? Is practising the two-tumbler system not a faith issue? The socially abhorrent practice of having separate tumblers for Hindus and Dalits is still in vogue in many families across India. Can one really fight for justice on one issue while unjustly denying rights to another group?

To address these pertinent concerns, there has to be a robust and well-rounded public discourse on all nuances of the right to pray.

WFS

To chase ideas & push boundaries

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FLYING HIGH Susmita Mohanty, an aerospace entrepreneur, wants to see more women get the spotlight they deserve, learns Pooja Mahesh.

Susmita Mohanty is one of the very few women in India who chose to break away from the crowd and look beyond the conventional career choices of engineering and medicine. An aerospace entrepreneur, Susmita is a protégée of Arthur C Clarke, the late science fiction writer and author of 2001: A Space Odyssey.

Her love affair with space began early when she had sent her first idea to NASA while still in high school. "I am passionate about the art and science of designing habitats and transporters to live and work in the hostile environment of outer space. Thus, I ended up being a space architect," says Susmita. She grew up in Ahmedabad surrounded by the pioneers of Indian space programme, including her dad. At the same time, she also got exposed to contemporary architecture as families who owned textile mills in Ahmedabad
often commissioned great architects such as Louis Kahn and B V Doshi to build homes and public institutions. She has, what can be called, a 'global education', having been educated in France, Sweden and India.

For a long time, Susmita knew she wanted to be an entrepreneur. But before plunging in, she worked briefly at Boeing and NASA. "I love to chase ideas, challenge the status quo and push the boundaries of technology, exploration and human endeavour," she says. This inspired her to begin her first company, MoonFront in San Francisco in 2001. Taking this as a learning experience, she co-founded her second company, LIQUIFER Systems Group (LSG), in Vienna.

Explaining her style of work, Susmita says, "I believe in a multidisciplinary approach to design where architects, engineers, industrial designers, sociologists, human behaviour scientists and others collaborate to design future systems," she explains. This is perhaps
why she launched her third company, Earth2Orbit (E2O), in India when she returned in 2007. With this company, she had the dream of leading India's foray into international markets.

For the long haul

So, what advice does she have for aspiring space entrepreneurs? "You have to be in it for the long haul. Unlike the get-rich-quick IT startups, it takes a good six to seven years for a space startup to start making decent revenues. Most investors are looking for a quick exit and instant return on investment. You need a real appetite for risk or be passionate about space to be able to invest in space companies," she says.

Susmita rues about the lack of support that space entrepreneurs receive in India when compared with their western counterparts, who receive a "fantastic funding ecosystem" from space agencies like NASA, European Space Agency and the European Commission. "E2O was bootstrapped and had to fly on an empty tank for a few years before we started to make revenues. There are a handful of space startups now in the country and we have come together to support each other and push for real change, not just empty talk," she informs.

Speaking of women in the field, Susmita maintains, "While one cannot deny that aerospace has traditionally been dominated by men, women are starting to play prominent roles, even taking on leadership positions. The German Space Agency (DLR) now has an Austrian astrobiologist, Dr Pascale Ehrenfreund, as its chief. The first woman head of a space agency was Dr Mazlan Othman of Malaysia and she later went on to head the United Nations Office for Outer Space Affairs (UN-OOSA). There are many such examples."

She also hopes that one day, more women will be able to take on more leadership roles. Closer home, she remembers a meeting where, "two out of the eight ISRO scientists and engineers attending were women. One of them designed the trajectory for the PSLV mission, while the other was in charge of the choreography and sequence of jettisoning nearly a dozen satellites from the rocket once in space."

By establishing an Indian chapter of Women in Aerospace, an international organisation that is dedicated to expanding women's opportunities for leadership and increasing their visibility in the aerospace community, Susmita believes that ISRO can now promote and highlight the accomplishments of Indian women in space. "They are underappreciated and not given the spotlight they deserve. When the now-famous photo showing ISRO women scientists in silk saris flashing a victory sign celebrating the success of Mangalyaan went viral, the world was both thrilled and surprised," adds Susmita.

Besides working on space projects, what does the entrepreneur like to do? Well, she likes to conceptualise and curate projects that intersect the arts and sciences. In May 2015, Susmita had organised an underwater dance workshop with French choreographer Kitsou Dubois at the Gati Dance Company in New Delhi. "I live a renaissance life, seamlessly straddling the worlds of art, architecture, design, technology and business," states Susmita. This can perhaps be best seen in the City as a Spaceship (CAAS) Collective, which she formed with Barbara Imhof and Sue Fairburn.

A working mom's dilemma

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MATERIAL LOVE Many working moms try to compensate for their absence from home with expensive gifts for the children. But is it the right thing to do, wonders Shaili Dhagat.

Liza is a worried mom. She has arguments with her husband about not being able to guide and control their kids. Their monthly budget depends upon her teenagers' monthly pocket money demands. "I am a working mother and when my children were younger, I would pamper them with little gifts like chocolates and comic books. But as they grew up, their
demands also grew," she says. For instance, the son needs money to recharge his phone (birthday gift) every now and then. The daughter wants a laptop and a tablet, apart from a long list of cosmetics, which must match her friends' collection. "Their demands are endless and so are the arguments between my husband and me. Sometimes, I feel I should quit my job, so that I can guide my children better," sighs Liza.

Of priceless gifts

This is not the case of Liza alone, but is true for almost every working mother. Many busy
parents try to compensate for the shortage of time with costly presents. They are willing to spend any amount of money to see their children happily occupied. After all, it does serve the purpose...at least for a while.

Yet many times, pangs of guilt force the parent to ponder over her kids' emotional wellbeing. Replacing their priceless love with gifts can have negative effects on the young ones. Eventually, many women reach a point where quitting the job for the sake of the kids seems inevitable.

But that's not the solution. Especially for women who want to make a career, who love their job, who are likely to feel miserable at home. Rather than take such a drastic step, it's better to first make some repairs at home. One good start would be to spend quality time with your kid rather than spoil him or her with expensive gifts. Ditch the phone for a while; sit down with your child for at least one meal a day; narrate your day's happenings to your little one. Take interest in your kid's activities at school, try to strike a chord with his or her friends.

Organise 'family time', where all the members of the house come together.

It's not easy. In spite of putting in their best efforts, working moms might face tricky situations at home. It is important to understand that peer pressure amongst children is more profound than what we imagine it to be. Aditya Rao, a class seven student, says, "I want a gear cycle like my best friend, but my parents keep postponing the purchase. I also wanted a play station, but my mom feels it is not good for my studies. Of course, this does not make me love my parents less, but I also want them to fulfill my desires." This 11-year-old has spoken volumes about our fast-changing society. Possessing material goods has become the need of the hour. It has become a status symbol that proves your worth in society.

Parenting experts concur that it is not wise of working mothers to cater to all demands made by their children. It is important to make the little ones understand the value of hard-earned money. It is also advisable to make the child understand the financial structure of the family. It is helpful if you involve your children in domestic chores like washing the family car on weekends or making the beds and pay them something for their contribution. This will inculcate dignity of labour in them from a young age.

As a reward or treat, it would be a good idea to plan a picnic or a visit to the zoo rather than gifting an expensive, yet impersonal toy. Such an outing will also help you unwind and spend quality time with your young one. It is necessary that both the mother and father are involved in this process.

Remember, your love and affection cannot be replaced with material gifts. It is love, which helps develop a deeper understanding between parents and their children. Temptations will be many but sensible upbringing can surely tackle it all! So, take heart. Your kids may not like you when their demands aren't met, but when they grow up, they will understand your intentions and respect you more.

Bound by the braid

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TWIST 'N' TURN Once considered 'the good girl' hairstyle, braids have now transformed into head-turning style statements, says Sharmila Chand.

If you thought you knew all about braids, think again. Fishtail, milkmaid, snake, lobster, prawn…no, you are not on a sea-diving trip, these are some of the endless hot styles in braids making a statement. That simple braid, which grandma used to make with lovely red ribbon, has undergone a makeover and is seen on runways in several innovative avatars.

"This is one hairstyle which gets hotter and bigger every year. The types of braids seem endless, from a loose side-swept braid to a long-braided ponytail. But one thing is for sure — whatever the braid style, it brings out the damsel in you," says Rodolphe Wilfrid Hequet, creative director, Worship Salon and Gentlemen's Tonic India.

In over 15 years of his experience in hairstyling globally, Rodolphe personally vouches for braid styling. "If you want the innocent look with a bit of playful touch to a hairdo, braids are the best bet. They're romantic, intricate, and will never pass unnoticed," he says. "They are as hot on the red carpet as they are perfect for your big day...Whatever the hair length, face shape and style, there is a braid style to suit you."

Likewise, for Garima Bhandari, co-founder of Glo (a beauty service app), the go-to hairstyle is a braid. She finds them incredibly chic and says any woman can sport it effortlessly by accessorising right. "Braids are timeless and the best part is that anyone can rock these braided hairstyles with ease. No wonder, our clients from all age groups ask for braids."

Face shape matters


Talking of face shapes to determine the most suitable braid style, Garima says, "Every face shape can carry the braided hairstyle, but it works best for the oval face shape." Those with chiselled faces too can carry it off. Inside-out braid, waterfall braid, snake braid, one-sided or double-sided braids suit the round faces, points out Sangita Singh, hairstylist at MyGlamm (an on-demand beauty salon at home). "Fishtail braid, carousel braid and Dutch braids enhance the cheek bones in an oval-shaped face. Square-shaped faces need hairstyles that would accentuate the face cuts. Hence, side-swept braids, messy side-braids and fishtail braids compliment the features," she maintains.

Style check

Stylists say you have a good friend in the fishtail braid. Sleep or go out, it will remain as you want and not spoil your look. Fishtail braided ponytail (a half fishtail braid that is gathered into a low ponytail) is a hot favourite of hip chicks for that cool look. Models often don twisted plaits, fishtail braid and reverse French braid to look chic. They say crown braid and rose braid look good with evening gowns.

Another style doing the rounds is the asymmetrical French fishtail braid updo. Don't be alarmed if your hairstyle looks like a seashell. Because that's how it is supposed to look. And if that is not enough, dress it up with a seashell hair accessory.

If you are looking for the oomph factor, hippie fishtail wraparound braid bun is the talk of the town. You just can't go wrong with this one — it is neatly done with a sock bun and two separate fishtail braids wrapped around the bun. It works best for those with long hair.

Fishtail braided headband is another favourite. Rodolphe says, "I'm particularly fond of this. It works well for various hair lengths and textures and suits most face shapes. It is simple to create two fishtail braids on either said of your head and then drape them under the crown."

Want to make your braids more attractive? Easy. "Look for those little pretty things — small bows, beaded pins, coloured bobby pins, flowers and ribbons and tuck them in your braid, for accessories are in vogue," says Sangita.

How to get that look


The next time you see your favourite celebrity sport a stylish braid, don't just wish you could do it too. Walk towards a mirror and try to do it in all earnestness. Braid up, flaunt yourself and be a headturner.

Jannat Sethi, a makeup artist and hairstylist from Makeup Designory (MUD), New York, gives us a low-down on how to do it right. From a casual look to a glamorous braided updo, here are the hottest trending braids this season:

The Dutch braid: The Dutch braid is basically a reverse French braid, a hairstyle that looks complex but is fairly simple. You simply braid strands under rather than over each other. Try and give your old school French a new twist. Sonam Kapoor as well as Kim Kardashian have been spotted wearing this style.

Fishtail: This is by far one of the quickest and easiest braid to pull off. Pull all of your hair onto one side and separate your hair into two sections; the fishtail is created by pulling a small section from the right section, taking it around the front of the left section and returning it through the centre to the right section. Do the same with left section — take a small section from behind the left side, around the front of the right side and back through the centre to the left. Deepika Padukone, Emma Watson and Priyanka Chopra have been sporting the fishtail.

Around the head braid: Brought back into fashion by celebrities such as Sienna Miller and the Olsen twins, the halo braid is the timeless beauty of the style. Also supporting this very 'Greek Goddess' look are Sonam Kapoor, Deepika Padukone and Chitrangada Singh.

Waterfall braid: This is another complex but a beautiful braiding style. To get the waterfall braid, create a deep side part and begin braiding from the front section of the hairline all the way down. In this look, a major portion of the hair can be left open. Alia Bhatt and Bipasha Basu seem to like this look.

Cornrows: Cornrows are very small braids and very close to the scalp. These can be very time consuming but can last for a couple of days. You can also braid all the cornrows into on braid and secure them with an elastic. Emma Watson, Khloe Kardashian and Alia Bhatt are some of the famous faces supporting this sleek hairstyle.

WORKS FOR MEN TOO!

Hot styles in braids for men:

Cornrows:
Cornrows are not just a hit with women but also with men. David Haye pulled this off extremely well at the MOBO awards
in London.

Box braid:
They are very intricate braids put together in a box pattern. Similar to cornrows. Harry Ford flaunts this one.

Pigtails: Easy and quick to do, this one is for all the lazy men out there. Makes it easy to manage long hair through the day. William Lemon rocks this look.

Dreadlocks: Typically donned by sadhus, this has always been an international hit for both men and women. This look is a little tricky and requires a lot of care and maintenance. Nile Rodgers is the ideal poster boy for the look.

Designer for your feet

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DESI STYLE Indian-made designer shoes are becoming popular owing to their chic quotient and affordability. Surekha Kadapa-Bose talks to experts in the field to track trends.

High life really comes with high heels. Don't believe it? Then you need to check out the celebrities, film stars and the Page 3 wannabes falling head over heels to be dressed in the right shoe, especially designed by Indian designers to "conquer the world" as Marilyn Monroe said it. Desi brands like Veruschka, The Yellow Polka, Rohan Arora, Taramay, AKA Bespoke, Varoin Marwah, Turquoise, Vanilla Moon, Rungg and several others are fighting it out with the Christian Louboutins, Jimmy Choos, Alexander McQueens and Manolo Blahniks of the world to adorn your dainty feet.

The Indian-designed shoe market may still be in a fledgling state, but it's promising enough to be noticed. The dawn of designer and customised footwear has begun. Until a couple of years ago, men and women thought only of designer clothes, jewellery and bags. Footwear was designated only to 'match the attire'. But things have changed since the fame haute couture shoe czar Christian Louboutin announced: "A woman carries her clothes. But the shoe carries the woman! A shoe is not only a design, but it's a part of your body language, the way you walk."

Within your reach

The absence of the right combination of style and comfort has been the reason for the emergence of this new breed of desi shoe designers. According to Payal Kothari, designer of Veruschka, the Mumbai-based brand produces about 100-150 pair of handcrafted footwear per month, which are priced between Rs 2,000-Rs 10,000 a pair.

Foreign brands, though considered ultimate in style and comfort, lag behind the home-grown brands due to their steep prices. For middle-class Indians, there is nothing on offer below Rs 40,000 from the foreign brands. But luxury accessory brand Taramay, by
Delhi's Nayantara Sood, retails its wedges, stilettos etc in the price range of Rs 2,500 to Rs 7,000. Ekta Sethi of Rungg offers hand embroidered footwear, using the traditional embroidery stitches like kantha, phulkari, kashmiri and others on her shoes, at competitive prices.

Nowadays, even well-known designers such as Ritu Kumar, Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Vikram Phadnis are sourcing out suitable footwear for their fashion shows from Indian footwear designers. So are film stars like Anushka Sharma, Kajol and Deepika Padukone to name only a few. Not to forget, industrialists like Ambanis, Goenkas, Birlas and the like.

Kolkata's Rohan Arora made an entry into luxury footwear category in 2010 having apprenticed with local shoemakers. Besides shoes made from cow hide, he offers those made from ostrich hide and even skin from chicken feet. While ladies shoes are priced between Rs 2,500 and Rs 24,000, men's shoes are up for grabs for as low as Rs 5,000. A year ago, Rohan made a shoe from gold, using ruby as embellishment for a bride in Kolkata. Of course, he is unwilling to reveal what his client paid for the stiletto pair, but given the precious metal and stones used it's anybody's guess that it wouldn't have cost less than Rs 35 lakh!

Personalised beauties

Made-to-order or bespoke shoes make the option of buying from Indian designers an attractive option for many. You order and get the footwear of your choice made with
materials, embellishments and design you choose. Besides genuine leather, fabric, canvass, faux leather, leatherite etc. are the more popular material used in India-made footwear.

The Yellow Polka shoes by Shinam Seth are quirky, colourful and, of course, stylishly comfortable and are priced upwards of Rs 1050. Shinam says, "There is a massive potential in the designer footwear market. People are willing to spend, if the designer is able to maintain the quality and is willing to customise and experiment with design."

For designers like Varion Marwah, the key is to source the designs and raw materials from the right place. The Dubai-based Indian origin designer sources them from karigars based in and around Kolkata. "We use only natural fabrics such as jute and canvas as they are comfortable, breathable, lightweight and yet very fashionable," he says.

With customisation gaining popularity maybe the fairy tale of Cinderella's glass story and her Prince Charming will turn into a reality.
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