Tanushree Podder visits the tiny Tuscan town of Arezzo and finds herself mesmerised by loads of art and history in the place.
At every turn of the narrow, cobbled lanes lined with ancient structures, I expected swashbuckling knights in armours bursting through the medieval arches on horsebacks.
Nothing of that sort happened, despite my romantic notions. What did happen was that chunks of my favourite movie came to life. Well, almost! Stretching imagination can be a wonderful thing and I did get a fantastic chance to do that at Arezzo, the tiny Tuscan town with loads of art and history.
Life is Beautiful or La vita è Bella (as Italians know it) is one of my favourite movies and when I was invited to visit Arezzo, the location of the movie, countless images flashed through my mind.
This is the town where Roberto Benigni was born. Faithfully, he has used the picturesque town in his movie. Adina Persano, my voluble guide, pointed out the Caffé Dei Constanti where a large chunk of Benigni's Oscar winning film was shot. Inside, the café is adorned by umpteen scenes from the movie that shot the town to fame, bringing in hordes of tourists.
Arezzo's claim to fame, however, does not rest on the film. Its history is a rich and artistic tapestry. Known to the Romans as Arretium, the town is one of the 12 most important Etruscan cities. Sitting snug atop a hill in South East Tuscany, Arezzo has a musical history too.
Guido d'Arezzo, a monk of Benedictine order, invented the mnemonic music system. Arezzo is where Petrarch, the Renaissance poet, was born. He was the one who brought sonnet to fashion. The tiny town is also the birthplace of Giorgio Vasari, one of the important artists and architects — the talented brains behind the Renaissance movement in Florence.
Fascinating frescos
Counting these facts on my finger tips, I made an inquisitive entry into the Chiesa di San Francesco, famous for the frescos by Piero della Francesca.
Awed by the stunning depiction of the Legend of the True Cross, I stood spellbound in the apse of the 14th century church as Adina took me through the 10 episodes of Christ's crucifixion, pointing out the incredible colours and lighting effect created by the artist in the medieval times. The frescos, which were commissioned by the well-heeled Bacci family between 1453 and 1466, are the high point of the town.
The panel depicting the meeting of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba is powerful enough to make a person halt there for a while. I was enraptured by the Dream of Constantine, where the artist has used lighting effects to an exquisite effect.
Arezzo is a town where time has forgotten to fly. It still seems steeped in the 15th century, both in ambience and attitude. Peaceful, scantly populated and beautiful; I could detect no pollution, no stressed and rushing people, and no grime. It is definitely an idyllic place to weave dreams and pass off a few years in Zen.
Past antique shops with bric- a- brac from another century, we traipsed uphill towards the point where the roads converged. Huffing and puffing, I halted for breath and stood stupefied. A captivating view of the countryside stretched before my eyes, resplendent and verdant.
Hemming me on one side lay the ruins of the Medici fortress, and on the other, the Duomo. In the serene and green park, right across me, an enthusiastic father played soccer with his son. It was a perfect morning to stroll the tranquil town that doesn't see too many tourist footfalls.
Inside the Duomo, seated at the top of the hill, is the tomb of Pope Gregory X, who died in 1276 at Arezzo. But it was not for the tomb that I had marched uphill.
My interest lay in the much admired fresco of Mary Magdalene, done by Piero della Francesca, on the walls of the cathedral. And I was not disappointed. Everything I had heard about the fresco and the mastery of Francesca were true.
The Centro Storico, the historical centre of the town, is however situated along the Piazza Grande. Ambling along the cobbled paths, I reached the enchanting square sitting on a slant, ringed by some of Tuscany's most striking architecture and historic edifices. Bordered on one side by the striking Loggia by Vasari and by Palazzo della Fraternita dei Laici, the Piazza was also a set for La Vita è Bella. A medieval well completes the picture.
Jousting venue
The square is the venue for the famous medieval jousting competition called Giostra del Saracino. Originating from the era of Crusades, the Saracen is now held twice a year, in June and September.
My guide tells me, during the event, eight knights clad in their chain armours canter past on their horses, representing the four quarters of the old city before jousting. It didn't take much effort to imagine the scene because all through my walk round the town, I had been dreaming of impressive knights astride white stallions, fully expecting them to sweep me off my feet.
The town square, which was once the spot for farmer's market, is now the venue of Arezzo's famous antique fair which takes place on the first weekend of every month.
Not surprisingly, I find scores of antique shops lining the square. From ancient crockery to cupboards and sewing machines, copper pots and Murano glass, Venetian crystals and ceramic cherubs, the shops are bursting with delightful ware.
Strolling along the medieval streets, Adina pointed out the shop which had been used as a location for Benigni's book shop in the film, La vita è bella.
For those who need a historical extravaganza, Arezzo offers an unstinted serving. A Roman Amphitheatre, several museums — there is something for even the most jaded traveller. For culture vultures, there is also the Casa di Vasari, the house of Giorgio Vasari, to browse through.
For me, though, the tryst with Benigni locations and frescos was enough food for thought.
At every turn of the narrow, cobbled lanes lined with ancient structures, I expected swashbuckling knights in armours bursting through the medieval arches on horsebacks.
Nothing of that sort happened, despite my romantic notions. What did happen was that chunks of my favourite movie came to life. Well, almost! Stretching imagination can be a wonderful thing and I did get a fantastic chance to do that at Arezzo, the tiny Tuscan town with loads of art and history.
Life is Beautiful or La vita è Bella (as Italians know it) is one of my favourite movies and when I was invited to visit Arezzo, the location of the movie, countless images flashed through my mind.
This is the town where Roberto Benigni was born. Faithfully, he has used the picturesque town in his movie. Adina Persano, my voluble guide, pointed out the Caffé Dei Constanti where a large chunk of Benigni's Oscar winning film was shot. Inside, the café is adorned by umpteen scenes from the movie that shot the town to fame, bringing in hordes of tourists.
Arezzo's claim to fame, however, does not rest on the film. Its history is a rich and artistic tapestry. Known to the Romans as Arretium, the town is one of the 12 most important Etruscan cities. Sitting snug atop a hill in South East Tuscany, Arezzo has a musical history too.
Guido d'Arezzo, a monk of Benedictine order, invented the mnemonic music system. Arezzo is where Petrarch, the Renaissance poet, was born. He was the one who brought sonnet to fashion. The tiny town is also the birthplace of Giorgio Vasari, one of the important artists and architects — the talented brains behind the Renaissance movement in Florence.
Fascinating frescos
Counting these facts on my finger tips, I made an inquisitive entry into the Chiesa di San Francesco, famous for the frescos by Piero della Francesca.
Awed by the stunning depiction of the Legend of the True Cross, I stood spellbound in the apse of the 14th century church as Adina took me through the 10 episodes of Christ's crucifixion, pointing out the incredible colours and lighting effect created by the artist in the medieval times. The frescos, which were commissioned by the well-heeled Bacci family between 1453 and 1466, are the high point of the town.
The panel depicting the meeting of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba is powerful enough to make a person halt there for a while. I was enraptured by the Dream of Constantine, where the artist has used lighting effects to an exquisite effect.
Arezzo is a town where time has forgotten to fly. It still seems steeped in the 15th century, both in ambience and attitude. Peaceful, scantly populated and beautiful; I could detect no pollution, no stressed and rushing people, and no grime. It is definitely an idyllic place to weave dreams and pass off a few years in Zen.
Past antique shops with bric- a- brac from another century, we traipsed uphill towards the point where the roads converged. Huffing and puffing, I halted for breath and stood stupefied. A captivating view of the countryside stretched before my eyes, resplendent and verdant.
Hemming me on one side lay the ruins of the Medici fortress, and on the other, the Duomo. In the serene and green park, right across me, an enthusiastic father played soccer with his son. It was a perfect morning to stroll the tranquil town that doesn't see too many tourist footfalls.
Inside the Duomo, seated at the top of the hill, is the tomb of Pope Gregory X, who died in 1276 at Arezzo. But it was not for the tomb that I had marched uphill.
My interest lay in the much admired fresco of Mary Magdalene, done by Piero della Francesca, on the walls of the cathedral. And I was not disappointed. Everything I had heard about the fresco and the mastery of Francesca were true.
The Centro Storico, the historical centre of the town, is however situated along the Piazza Grande. Ambling along the cobbled paths, I reached the enchanting square sitting on a slant, ringed by some of Tuscany's most striking architecture and historic edifices. Bordered on one side by the striking Loggia by Vasari and by Palazzo della Fraternita dei Laici, the Piazza was also a set for La Vita è Bella. A medieval well completes the picture.
Jousting venue
The square is the venue for the famous medieval jousting competition called Giostra del Saracino. Originating from the era of Crusades, the Saracen is now held twice a year, in June and September.
My guide tells me, during the event, eight knights clad in their chain armours canter past on their horses, representing the four quarters of the old city before jousting. It didn't take much effort to imagine the scene because all through my walk round the town, I had been dreaming of impressive knights astride white stallions, fully expecting them to sweep me off my feet.
The town square, which was once the spot for farmer's market, is now the venue of Arezzo's famous antique fair which takes place on the first weekend of every month.
Not surprisingly, I find scores of antique shops lining the square. From ancient crockery to cupboards and sewing machines, copper pots and Murano glass, Venetian crystals and ceramic cherubs, the shops are bursting with delightful ware.
Strolling along the medieval streets, Adina pointed out the shop which had been used as a location for Benigni's book shop in the film, La vita è bella.
For those who need a historical extravaganza, Arezzo offers an unstinted serving. A Roman Amphitheatre, several museums — there is something for even the most jaded traveller. For culture vultures, there is also the Casa di Vasari, the house of Giorgio Vasari, to browse through.
For me, though, the tryst with Benigni locations and frescos was enough food for thought.