The stretch of the Western Ghats from the small town of Kottigehara to Ujire, near Dharmasthala, is a beautiful region, dotted with gorges, densely wooded slopes and numerous waterfalls. B V Prakash visits Alekan Falls, a small waterfall, and comes away enchanted by the region's beauty.
The district of Chikmagalur is a truly charming region of the Western Ghats. With hill stations, wildlife sanctuaries, streams and waterfalls all in plenty, it is also a good base from where one can take off.
The ghats, extending all the way from the small town of Kottigehara to Ujire near Dharmasthala, is a lovely stretch, dotted with high mountains, deep gorges, densely wooded slopes and numerous waterfalls.
This region is called the Charmadi Ghats, where driving is an experience to remember. Just a short stay in the salubrious surroundings is soothing enough. 'Malaya Marutha', a guest house built by the Forest Department, is the crowning glory of this region. It overlooks the endless chain of mountains tapering off to the coastal plains in the west.
Landing at the Forest Department office in Chikmagalur for the necessary permission to stay at the guest house, I met the Deputy Conservator of Forests, S Venkatesan, who readily helped out with the formalities and guided me to Kottigehara checkpost, 53 km away.
The excitement had already begun as I reached the checkpost and continued for four km further down. True to my expectations, the guest house was located at a high point on a corner as the road swerved off into the valley. Built around 19 years ago like a Buddhist pagoda, this six-sided structure is at a vantage position on an elevated plateau.
The basic interiors and lack of electricity are more than compensated for by stunning views of the hills, the forest and a stream, especially from the viewing balcony at the top.
Alekan Falls
The caretaker suggested visiting a waterfall hardly a kilometer down. A leisurely stroll brought us to the point. Named Alekan Falls, it is a medium-sized waterfall that cascades right alongside the road.
A forest stream drops from a rocky precipice and flows along to join the Nethravathi much further. We had to descend a scary trail down to the base in order to get a full view of the snow-white cascades. Most of the passers-by invariably stop here for a while to take in the view. The evening at the guest house was windy and cold.
I was, in fact, told that the name 'Malaya Marutha' which roughly translates into mountain breeze, was appropriate as the westerly winds howled from the valley.
The temperature also drops, sometimes to Himalayan standards, forcing one to snuggle up under covers. As the evening transforms into night, a golden sun slides behind the hill even as it casts a yellow sheen on the landscape. The silence of the night is broken only by the howling of the wind and the gurgle of the stream.
An equally charming experience can be had at the break of dawn as the whole valley comes alive with sounds of myriad creatures and bird song.
The hill to the right, Alekan Gudda, is bathed in golden light. The activity for the day is a walk into the forest, Somana Kadu, involving a trek of four km each way. The starting point is near the temple of Annappa, a small but much visited shrine. The path from here goes down all the way to the floor of the valley.
The path was made easier to trek thanks to anecdotes from Kalachari, my guide, which distracted me from the task. Earlier, this area used to be called Gali Gandi, a place of fierce winds. This place was so attractive that the last Mysore king, Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar, often visited the place with his entourage.
Historical records show that Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar, as a six-year-old, accompanied the Maharaja, to this place. Somana Kadu is a nice picnic spot with a stream in the middle of tall trees. The dilapidated bridge here was used in the Sixties to transport timber, I learnt. Now a nursery is maintained here by the Department.
Getting there
Malaya Marutha is 57 km from Chikmagalur and 20 km from Mudigere. Buses going from Mudigere towards Dharmasthala/Mangalore stop at Kottigehara, three km before, from where autorickshaws can be hired. Permission to stay here has to be obtained by the range forest officer at Mudigere or the deputy conservator of forests at Chikmagalur.