I am standing in what was once called the Great North Road in Barnet, looking up at the Red Lion (originally spelt Lyon) Inn. Except for the figure of the lion way up above, it looks like any other modern building now.
I try to imagine what it must have looked like in the early 16th century when this ancient inn "not only stabled 18 pairs of horses but also boasted of uniformed servants," something unique in those days!
This picturesque borough in Hertfordshire is a collage of open green fields; blossoming parks ablaze with colour; lakes full of swans and ducklings; tranquil old churches set against ancient shady trees; quaint inns; quiet avenues lined with pretty villas and blooming gardens. But I am here today primarily on a literary and historical quest. What I mean to explore is the Barnet of Charles Dickens, Dr Johnson, Daniel Defoe and Samuel Pepys; the Barnet of Georgette Heyer and the Barnet of King John, Henry VIII and John the Baptist.
Coming from London, you'd run into the High Street, choc-a-bloc with shops and shoppers like any other busy street, and wonder where on earth the history lies buried. But step into any lane that leads to the quiet countryside and you'd know where to look. Originally known as Chipping Barnet, the word Chipping denotes the presence of a market, set up in the 13th century, which continues to this day. King John is said to have granted the charter for the market more than 800 years ago.
At the centre of the town stands St John the Baptist Church built in 1560, erected by John de la Moote, the abbot of St Albans. I step inside to see the medieval nave and aisles separated by clustered columns, which support four pointed arches, a vestry, built during the reign of James I and a low, square embattled tower, all of them beautifully maintained. Other churches in Barnet — St Mark's, St James's and St Mary's among others — stand out like little islands of tranquillity.
The historic Barnet Fair that dates back to 1588 was visited by celebrities and commoners alike, leading to the development of several inns on the Great North Road. It soon became a popular stopover point for famous visitors, including members of the royal family. The Red Lion is said to be the oldest among the existing ones. Samuel Pepys, Charles Dickens and Ballantyne (remember the Coral Island ?) had dined or stayed there.
Pepys mentions in his famous diary the cheesecakes he had tasted here. Dr Johnson and Lord Torrington patronised The Mittre. Henry VIII's favourite was The Antelope. Between 1750 and 1800, magistrates held their meetings in a number of these inns, mainly The Red Lion, The Mittre, and The Boar's Head (now called The Crown and Anchor ).
Those of you who remember Oliver Twist would also remember that Fagin had first met Artful Dodger at Barnet. Fans of Georgette Heyer would recall the Great North Road that was used for curricle races, elopement gallops and mock hold-ups. Many of her characters stopped by at Potter's Bar, Mitre's Inn or put up at the Red Lion. Incidentally, Barnet Hill is said to be the hill mentioned in the nursery rhyme The Grand Old Duke of York.
Barnet has been the scene of many historic events. The Watling Street (now known as the A5), built by the Romans in AD 43 was the main link between London (then Londinium) and St Albans. The Battle of Barnet in the War of the Roses (between King Edward IV and the Earl of Warwick) was fought here in 1471 and saw the return of the exiled King Edward to England.
The Barnet Museum is worth a visit for the wealth of information it offers about the Barnet War and the striking paintings of a bygone era. Also on display are centuries-old household objects and costumes dating back to medieval times. Interestingly, as more than 3,000 people had died in Barnet's Monkden Hadley, it is said to be the second most "haunted village" in the UK, especially famous for the ghost of a medieval knight galloping across the Oak Hill Park in full armour in the company of fellow-spooks. So the place was named the Ghosts' Promenade.
Unfortunately I am unable to see them in broad daylight!
It is now time to look for another interesting site for which Barnet was once famous. In 1661 Rev Childrey published a book, Natural Rareties of England, Scotland and Wales, where he mentioned the 'Physic Well of Barnet'. The water of this spring well was said to be medicinal, as good as that of Tunbridge or Epsom. The most-quoted reference was made by Samuel Pepys in his diary.
On July 11, 1664 he visited the well for the first time and drank five glasses of water. He wrote, "The woman (attendant) would have me drink three more, but I could not." Again on August 11, 1667, he reached the well at seven o' clock in the morning and found, despite the severe cold, "many people a-drinking" the water of the well. Daniel Defoe (remember Robinson Crusoe?) also mentions "the mineral waters of the Barnet Well."
Although I locate the place easily, I cannot not get to see the well itself. The building in which it is housed is now closed from all sides, probably to protect it from over-inquisitive eyes. I am told that in the 17th century, the area used to be a part of the Barnet Common. Although a little disappointed, I don't really mind not seeing the historic well. The green canopy of the trees, the clear blue sky above and the profusion of flowers all around more than makes up for what I have missed!
I try to imagine what it must have looked like in the early 16th century when this ancient inn "not only stabled 18 pairs of horses but also boasted of uniformed servants," something unique in those days!
This picturesque borough in Hertfordshire is a collage of open green fields; blossoming parks ablaze with colour; lakes full of swans and ducklings; tranquil old churches set against ancient shady trees; quaint inns; quiet avenues lined with pretty villas and blooming gardens. But I am here today primarily on a literary and historical quest. What I mean to explore is the Barnet of Charles Dickens, Dr Johnson, Daniel Defoe and Samuel Pepys; the Barnet of Georgette Heyer and the Barnet of King John, Henry VIII and John the Baptist.
Coming from London, you'd run into the High Street, choc-a-bloc with shops and shoppers like any other busy street, and wonder where on earth the history lies buried. But step into any lane that leads to the quiet countryside and you'd know where to look. Originally known as Chipping Barnet, the word Chipping denotes the presence of a market, set up in the 13th century, which continues to this day. King John is said to have granted the charter for the market more than 800 years ago.
At the centre of the town stands St John the Baptist Church built in 1560, erected by John de la Moote, the abbot of St Albans. I step inside to see the medieval nave and aisles separated by clustered columns, which support four pointed arches, a vestry, built during the reign of James I and a low, square embattled tower, all of them beautifully maintained. Other churches in Barnet — St Mark's, St James's and St Mary's among others — stand out like little islands of tranquillity.
The historic Barnet Fair that dates back to 1588 was visited by celebrities and commoners alike, leading to the development of several inns on the Great North Road. It soon became a popular stopover point for famous visitors, including members of the royal family. The Red Lion is said to be the oldest among the existing ones. Samuel Pepys, Charles Dickens and Ballantyne (remember the Coral Island ?) had dined or stayed there.
Pepys mentions in his famous diary the cheesecakes he had tasted here. Dr Johnson and Lord Torrington patronised The Mittre. Henry VIII's favourite was The Antelope. Between 1750 and 1800, magistrates held their meetings in a number of these inns, mainly The Red Lion, The Mittre, and The Boar's Head (now called The Crown and Anchor ).
Those of you who remember Oliver Twist would also remember that Fagin had first met Artful Dodger at Barnet. Fans of Georgette Heyer would recall the Great North Road that was used for curricle races, elopement gallops and mock hold-ups. Many of her characters stopped by at Potter's Bar, Mitre's Inn or put up at the Red Lion. Incidentally, Barnet Hill is said to be the hill mentioned in the nursery rhyme The Grand Old Duke of York.
Barnet has been the scene of many historic events. The Watling Street (now known as the A5), built by the Romans in AD 43 was the main link between London (then Londinium) and St Albans. The Battle of Barnet in the War of the Roses (between King Edward IV and the Earl of Warwick) was fought here in 1471 and saw the return of the exiled King Edward to England.
The Barnet Museum is worth a visit for the wealth of information it offers about the Barnet War and the striking paintings of a bygone era. Also on display are centuries-old household objects and costumes dating back to medieval times. Interestingly, as more than 3,000 people had died in Barnet's Monkden Hadley, it is said to be the second most "haunted village" in the UK, especially famous for the ghost of a medieval knight galloping across the Oak Hill Park in full armour in the company of fellow-spooks. So the place was named the Ghosts' Promenade.
Unfortunately I am unable to see them in broad daylight!
It is now time to look for another interesting site for which Barnet was once famous. In 1661 Rev Childrey published a book, Natural Rareties of England, Scotland and Wales, where he mentioned the 'Physic Well of Barnet'. The water of this spring well was said to be medicinal, as good as that of Tunbridge or Epsom. The most-quoted reference was made by Samuel Pepys in his diary.
On July 11, 1664 he visited the well for the first time and drank five glasses of water. He wrote, "The woman (attendant) would have me drink three more, but I could not." Again on August 11, 1667, he reached the well at seven o' clock in the morning and found, despite the severe cold, "many people a-drinking" the water of the well. Daniel Defoe (remember Robinson Crusoe?) also mentions "the mineral waters of the Barnet Well."
Although I locate the place easily, I cannot not get to see the well itself. The building in which it is housed is now closed from all sides, probably to protect it from over-inquisitive eyes. I am told that in the 17th century, the area used to be a part of the Barnet Common. Although a little disappointed, I don't really mind not seeing the historic well. The green canopy of the trees, the clear blue sky above and the profusion of flowers all around more than makes up for what I have missed!